Nomad's Dream

closing of this blog, go visit Nanna's blog, where the Nomad is....(click down below)

2010-12-28T04:06:00.001+01:00

a pleasant pandemonium

2010-12-25T01:13:00.002+01:00

a pleasant pandemonium...

Going shopping in Guaymas is all a discovery adventure in itself. The 20 minutes ride in a jolty city bus with its derelict gear box is a nice start to get us out of the more ”refine” and quite boring San Carlos. Guaymas is not an attractive town, not touristic at all, although certain efforts have been made on the waterfront to attract the guests of some lost cruise ships which venture once in a while in the Sea, on their way down from Alaska.

It was a big fishing harbor, still is and some factories and plants make it now an industrial city. Nothing historically important, but the city is set in a splendid bay. Sonora with its desertic wild ranges has never been a big Spanish settlement to start with.

But precisely it is this chaotic feeling that appeals to us. The shops with their outrageous signboards, the sreaming loudspeakers playing popular local music on the pavement, the medical offices and lab side by side with tire shops, and tacos stands, the young and indolent crowd huddling on the side walks on this Christmas Eve, even the screech of the klaxons and the broken exhaust pipe of the derelict cars make all this mess likeable.. It is a view of Mexico, not disguised as the gringo colonized San Carlos is with its outrageous over bidding estates for wealthy retired americanos.

One has to forget the organized world, the over stocked department stores. Here, you have to know where and how to do your shopping. Of course, one can always go to the new Wal-Mart or Sam's Club with their outrageous prices and poor stocks (those two are the closest to San Carlos...for a reason).

We finally found the very well stocked and price wise very economical supermarket in the center of Guaymas after trying two others the previous weeks. And this a regal full of local products that I love to try out.

It is not the lack of shops, but it is impossible to find some electrical tools. Not willing to search for ever, we found what we needed (a battery powered drill) in a cash and go shop, a pawn shop. Those shops are quite numerous in town, all with no less than 3 employees plus a security guard for just a few items... Anyway it is a good buy.

We needed no more than three other different shops to find some thread, a little broom et some rugs... But now we know where things are.

We spent a full day to go shopping for a few items, not forgetting some food for our quiet Christmas dinner, but we came back happy from our little raid downtown. Despite the chaos, the native crowd is congenial, non agressive and cordial. No bawling and shouting at each other, no bad mood or rude gestures toward us the gringos, on the contrary.

The wind blew today and dusty Guaymas stick to our skin as we return to the yard where we unpack our goodies so hardly gathered...

If the drill was a good buy, the sewing machine bought from our host does not work, it a heavy duty old Paaf and so far Magnus has spent a day working on it. I have tons of sewing to do, pockets, leeclothes etc.. all prepared and cut to be sewn... It is a not only a disapointement but a great inconvenience to say the least....

FELIZ NAVIDAD !!!

A water hole

2010-12-06T19:06:00.000+01:00


Nacapule Canyon

Where there is water, there is life and that makes this North American desert wonderful. Water is flowing trapped under rocks and comes to the surface clear and cold. When summer rains and thunderstorms struck the water becomes furious and rushes down with tremendous forces forming through the ages deep canyons. It is where we can find some astonishing oasis like the one in Nacapule, just 5 miles from us. How many of those little oasis are hidden in the rugged mountains range ? Nobody knows but the wild life and some natives. Nacapule was discovered some 3000 years ago by a nomadic tribe of sonora. It is very accessible for a wonderful and energizing hike deep inside the red mountains.

The tribulation of buying a boat unseen...

2010-11-25T19:21:00.004+01:00

Nanna's sister ship Southern Cross 35

If everything went well from the sale of Röde Orm to the long and tiring trip with its two border crossings, and the wonderful welcome of my friend, the rest had more or less a cold water shower feeling.. And without the hospitality of friends, the beautiful scenery and warm weather, we would have felt slightly taken aback.

Our expectations were perhaps too high, our excitement over powering the reality. The really simple lesson is to see before you act !!

The Union Polaris showed well from distance, but as soon as you look closely behind the glossy of the varnish we just realized that this boat has not been at sea for quite a long time, and revealed more problematic issues as the engine, the compatibility of a worm gear stirring with a windvane, some rotten spots that cleary states some leaks and some flimsy set up that could be a nonsense at sea. In short, we were disapointed. This boat is not quite ready to go to sea, and if the old Volvo is dying, what next ?

Did we make a big mistake ? Our enthusiasm suddendly dropped. A week had passed, we were technically homeless, boatless, boxless (this one sailing between Portugal and Vera Cruz...hopefully ) and in Mexico..

Nanna on the hard

We just went on to see more boats and... the first one we saw caught our eyes and our heart. Nothing flashy about it, a strong built 35 footer, sturdy and fully equipped. A Southern Cross (becoming soon Southern Comfort for Magnus !)35, built as Röde Orm is. price wise... well not a bargain as the other one, but the assurance of a sea worthy boat as soon as it is in the water. Nothing to add. So Nanna is a Southern Cross 35, nicknamed Southern Comfort by the Viking !!

Thanksgiving today and we are invited for a party ! By the way, I had the great pleasure to see some friends I left behind three years ago. It was almost like coming back home. But how many homes do I have ? !!
Oh and did I mention Magnus first encounter with a tarentula (young one) and a scorpion, in the room ? and the nightly howls of coyotes ? Pretty exotic for a Viking !

hasta luego misty river, good bye Röde Orm

2010-10-29T12:02:00.000+02:00

We left the secure cocoon of the river, leaving behind good friends, and knowing it is a place we can always come back and find peace and beauty. It was also our last ride with Röde Orm, and soon we will have to say our good byes to the good friend and safe home she has been.

Double nostalgia, but also the thrill of discovering something new, for me it will be the new Nanna, for Magnus, he will discover the Sea of Cortez. But before, we have one week to deal with all the logistics.... And that, it is not fun !!

getting ready for the big move... or backtracking...

2010-10-19T13:44:00.000+02:00

From RÖDE ORM

to NANNA

Moving from house to boat, done it. Moving from house to house done it. Moving from house to storage done it too. Moving from boat to boat, about to do it and to make the game more thrilling, from one continent to the other some 12 thousand kms apart, and all of those above in less than 3 years. Though considering my former experiences the last 25 years, nothing abnormal. Though this time it is quite unsettling when we have to rely on a ship freight to send our personnal stuff. We will be in our next home that we will discover too... before anything we sent by ship arrive and who knows when and in which shape will it arrive ?

Anyway, Röde Orm will change hand as we leave to take over Nanna. Everything went swithly and smootly so far and not one month after we came back from North, everything with Röde Orm was concluded.

But most unsettling for me is that I am crossing back my own tracks to the place where I decided to start over a new phase of my agited life. Because of all places, Nanna is in San Carlos, Mexico. Having friends there helped and was also a deciding factor when the newly named Nanna was chosen as the one to replace Röde Orm. Now that we do not have land base, Röde Orm feels a little bit too narrow and crowded for long term cruising. Nanna with its 36 ft will seem a very big boat to us.

It was a perfect sail today as we went back to the river from Faro to prepare our stuff to be sent via ship freight, meaning building a big box. A warm summery breeze shoved us downwind on a beautiful flat sea. 4.5 knots was the perfect speed just enough to arrive before dusk in the mouth of the river. We realized that was one of the very last sail with Röde Orm and that surely brought a lot of nostalgia.

return to the beautiful river

2010-09-22T11:33:00.000+02:00

Some sailors at the end of their wandering life or the dreamers still dreaming the faraway edens end up here on the shores of the Guadiana. The charm of this river winding between virgin lands and beautiful hills at the back doors of Portugal and Andalucia is such that some anchors get sucked in the mud for ever: Lot of boats sailed their last miles here to the point of no return, still pulling on their chain as dogs on their leash turning their nose to the upcoming tides still hoping to go for a last ride. And after all, they still could do it, the Ocean is so close, just one tide away !

Abandonned patches of land let to grow back to the wild lost on the river shore far from anything are as much mirages for those ready to bury their anchors. They attrack them as lost atolls in the Pacific do for intrepid sailors. Everyone who experienced this river let one self dream about little acres of land on the shore of the Guadiana, far from the noisy crowd of the resort cities of the coast but close enough to enjoy certain advantages they offer.

Some succeed in buying a few acres of wild land, no longer proper for the local meagre agriculture. There is not, and there will not be any electricity or sewage, it is at the mercy of the floods which are still highly possible despite dams up river. But nothing stop them, not even the prohibition to build anything permanent or the lack of proper close by roads, or even good trails. Used to the minimalistic way of life on boats, they see themselves as new robinsons, happy to live under the shed of thousand year old olive trees, prolific fig trees and generous grenade trees, hidden from anyone. Their solitude and tranquility are guaranteed as Portugal and Spain are declaring the Guadiana shores as a natural preserve. Even if that means to many the impossibility to ever built anything else than shelters (there is no lack of bamboos !).

helping land friends to little project, some cement job to make a permanent mooring for their boat.

So to not intrude on them and respect this place that harbored safely Röde Orm for 3 months, I will say no more and I will leave the bells of the 3 churches between San Lucar and Alcoutim respond to each other across the always lively water of the beautiful river

Time to migrate south

2010-09-08T11:37:00.001+02:00

a visit to Mont St Michel, even more mysterious under the drizzle normand

It is time to go back to Röde Orm and time for sailing and enjoying new places. So back on our track again after this long break north.


we do not want to find a tree in Röde Orm cockpit !

and St Malo, the proud city of our "corsaires", standing proud across the centuries

a little tour in South Brittany

2010-07-28T14:37:00.000+02:00

The past all around us, Clisson medieval city

The rocky coast of St Gildas, South of the Loire estuary

Guérande, a medieval walled city

and the famous salt ponds of Guérande,

Le Croisic, active fishing harbor on a beautiful coast

old mills of the 15 century, back to activity

Ouch ....!

2010-07-20T13:39:00.000+02:00

France is a country to visit, to enjoy food, wine and savoir vivre, but for me none of that, or well... some anyway before I submit myself to the knife of a surgeon.....Nothing dramatic.... but it will be a big relief to have it done before going to remote places. I do not feel confortable at all to rely on a local shaman !

A rare breed of elephant...(click on title for more pictures)

2010-07-15T15:10:00.002+02:00

Yes, in Nantes, my home city, there is some strange animals called : les machines de l'île (de Nantes). They were born in the former big shipyard which was the heart of Nantes before it closed its doors 20 years ago. After been laid off some formers craftmen working in the yard decided to create strange creatures in wood, animated by hydraulic movements. They started with the Giant and the Little Giant which now tour the world big cities, and of course the famous Elephant. Now more than 30 creatures are created, a mixture of the world of Jules Verne, native of Nantes, and the wild and poetic imagination of artist craftmen. A team of young craftmen and women work continuously on new projects, the goal is to create a giant carroussel where all these machines will be used for the fun of people. Meanwhile, everyone is invited to climb on a firing sea dragon, or a cute turtle or a roaring strange flying fish and can participate to make it lively by using some pedals, levers to move feet, eyes etc..

The little giant

It was a very good initiative that the people of Nantes apreciated. The closing of the shipyard was a dramatic shock for Nantes which has always been an important harbor since the Roman invasion .Now the deserted yard is lively again and instead of launching huge ships, some very strange beasts emerge from the big warehouses, and a giant and his little niece can come back after their vacations around the world.

The sea dragon

and the sultan's elephant

nordic summer

2010-07-07T12:02:00.001+02:00

stockholm

We left Röde Orm at anchor in the river, and flew to Sweden for a few weeks, to take care of a few land related matters.

Sweden is at its best during this so longed for mid summer that 9 millions of Swedish wait for during 10 months of the year. Luck is on their side, and ours, as the sun shines brightly over the country, and a very warm and hot weather swarms over the nordic lands. It is a bonanza of nature, as vegetation, humans and animals are united in a frenesy of life, knowing this break is short. The days seem to never end and the sun takes only a short break to disapear still not to far from the horizon before showing up again.
We are busy removing the last chains that tie Magnus to land but we would rather enjoy sailing during this beautiful period in the archipelago. Instead, we drive back and forth betwen Malmö, Gamleby, Gälve giving me the oportunity to discover more, even Stokholm, so I enjoy it this way too, between packing stuff in boxes !!!

A road trip

2010-06-05T20:02:00.000+02:00

Mértola, 38 km north of Alcoiutim on the Guadiana is in the province of Alentejo (a well known good wine production area). It is hazardeous to reach it with our boats, so thanks to Mo, our new friend resident on the Guadiana shores, we drove through the steep hills and deserted landscape. We all got in his van for a little discovery trip. with Andreas, Swedish first met in Falsterbo who just came with his boat to Alcoutim. Since Antiquity, the area was already well known for minerals and for its prime location along the river. The Romans had established a good base at Mértola as show important ruins close to the Moorish forteress. The little village has been a very impressive settlement dominating the narrow valley since the pre Roman era. The Moors took over and the islamic culture left its trace even nowdays, some islamic holidays are still celebrated. Farther in the Alantejo where a torrid and dry wind sweeps the smoother hills, we go see the Minas Santo Domingo. The mines were closed in 1943. Exploited since the Romans, it is now a open wound in the landscape. The region is ruined by the acidic mineral deposit. The little village where the miners lived is still surviving among the remains of the mine and the acidic small artificial lakes with their bare and unhealthy shores. Far from the coast and its often clashy tourist traps, there is a lot to discover if what you want to see is the Portugal which still belongs to the Portugueses. Few tourists go deep in the country, and even fewer cruisers who prefer the security of the English speaking costal towns and marinas. Well they miss a lot, but we surely do not miss them around us !!

Aromatic trekking

2010-05-19T17:07:00.006+02:00

(click on title of post to see photo albums)

the fountain in alcoutim

We took off on a two days hike in the country of olive, almond and fig trees groves along the trails winding among lavender and rosmary bushes, sage and other flowers in full bloom. The labyrinth of smooth but steep hills show very few habitations, the villages are far apart and very small on both sides of the Guadiana. It is a heaven for the senses. We set our tent at the base of an almond tree among the thick bed of flowers and herbs and just enjoyed the spicy air at the top of the hill, dominating the surroundings and the river. The Algarve is not only the splendid beaches and ocre cliffs that the tourists love so much. It is also this rugged and rustic isolated back country, genuine, full of charm and hospitality and most of all pristine and beautiful along the Guadiana.

Border life (click on title for more pictures)

2010-04-30T22:37:00.003+02:00

10 o'clock rings from the bell of the Spanish church echoed by 9 o'clock from the Portuguese church bell.
Hard not to know the time of the day here... but what time ? We go grocery shopping at 10 in San Lucas but managed also by 10 to be at the library in Alcoutim !! That is life on the Guadiana river, between spanish and portugues time, between two little towns, or just villages competing for the loveliest award.
With no doubt, San Lucas wins. It is the perfect little Andalucian village, white, flowery, standing proud on its hill like a little forteress around its church. A mighty fort oversees the river from the top of the other hill. It is a sleepy little place where no one can be seen between 2 and 5 o'clock...
Alcoutim is not so attractive, though seems more lively, probably because of a main road going by. Its fort is at the village level and does not appear as mighty and grandiose as its Spanish conterpart. Both villages have a long history behind them, and the river has been an importan for the Phoenicians to the Romans Visigoths, Moors.. etc..
it is a unique place on a beautiful river easy to navigate, with absolutely no commercial traffic at all, welcoming to cruisers with no restrictions at all. It is unspoiled and isolated

A change of pace, Guadiana river

2010-04-30T22:22:00.000+02:00

Though it is not a slow pace up river, because the tidal current is strong. Too bad, we did not sail because it is deep and wide enough but we had a head wind. The river is not busy, no commercial boats, a few sail boats taking advantage of the tides go down, or up. We do not even see some local boats fishing. We decided to stop at he first little village on the Portuguese shore, though anchored more on the spanish side. There is not even a store. As soon as we passed the bridge after Ayamonte, we entered a totally different country. A country of olive trees, figue trees, almond trees, grape and of green emptiness. There are not many houses in view, just hills after hills of green trees and a multitude of flowers which are in full bloom after the rainy winter. It is peaceful, out of time compare to the coast. We took our first hike in the heat of midday, enjoying the smell of the pungent flowers and bushes, following trails which led to the almond and olive trees grooves. A beautiful first day on the Guadiana.

One foot in Portual, the other in Andalusia

2010-04-26T10:30:00.001+02:00

We chose the spanish side of the river Guadiana and anchored on the North side of Ayamonte 2 miles after the entrance of the Guadiana. The tidal current here is powerful !

We were eager to be in Spain after a so long stay in a rather dull and subdued Portugal and choose to visit Ayamonte, on the Andalusian side of the river.

Here there is a spark that makes everything livelier, more energetic. The nice plazas, the better kept old buildings and houses, better food and cheaper. But most of all people who aknowledge you, and it is a nice change.

Tavira

2010-04-22T12:43:00.001+02:00

Tavira island perspective....

As we go east toward Spain, it seems that we are finding the true Algarve where people do not adress you in English, where the cities still belong to Portugueses rather than foreign citizens. There are still long beautiful beaches on the islands that the lagunas created, there are no spectacular cliffs and caves anymore, but long lagunas formed by little rios where tides rule. it is the salt marshes and a bird heaven.

Tavira is well worth a stop, though it is not a yatchmen paradise in search of marinas and comodities. And it is why we like it.... The entrance is narrow, the tidal current playing around this funnel. The channel easy enough but the anchorage space in the little rio very scarse as we have to stay clear of the chenal, well marked and lit as it is a very busy little fishing harbor. Tavira island on one side is a natural reserve so preserved from any building and tourists resorts, apart from a few beach restaurants and a campground. at the ferry landing. It is only accessible by a little ferry, It is a surprise to see that the island is kept pristine, contrary to Culatra, here the trash and flotjams are removed. The season has not started yet and the long beach of several kilometers is totally deserted.

The town of Tavira is 2 miles walking along the salt marshes- And it is a very nice, extremely pleasant town on a even higher scale than Siles. Beautiful old buildings and old houses surprisingly well kept, The ruins of the castle harbor a pleasant botanic garden. Tavira was in the 13^th century a rich garrison city during the conquest of North Africa, then another golden era in the 19 th century up to the mid 1960 with tuna fishing and its canneries. Nowdays, the city takes pride to revive her past by restoring some very old buildings and even doing some archeological escavations. Some more modern addition keep the city young, open and very hospitable.The European fund is used for this purpose, and hopefully there is still enough to finish the job !!

a walk in the sand

2010-04-11T23:43:00.000+02:00

The Levante blew strong last night and finally came down after noon to allow us to go ashore to explore.

Culatra is a flat sandy island smelling thym and rosemary. It is a little paradise, with no road, a grandiose beach and no cars allowed. A small fishing village at the origin with fishermen shacks became a little low key resorts for their family and locals from Olhao or Faro, who come with the little ferry. Two little villages are separated by marshes and sand dunes. Some boats, camarans ended up here to bury their hulls in the marsh, creating a little village on their own, or a boat shanty town rather !! It is serene, unique, beautiful, but again, Portuguese do not respect their nature and it is too bad to see so many trash along the shore, in a natural reserve....

click on the title for more pictures

On the road again...

2010-04-09T19:58:00.000+02:00

on of the little project, a cockpit table...

We remained two days on board in front of Culatra and its little fishing harbour before going ashore..The vast bay created by the laguna is calm, serene. Faro, the biggest city in Algarve is visible on the West side, Ohlao, all white, to the North and the flat sandy Culatra island and its little village on our beam, a few yards away, on our bow, East is the infinity of the immense sand bar and laguna and the beginning of the natural reserve.
The bay can be deceiving though, it is large but not navigable for us outside its chenals, marsh lands and sand bars. The anchorage seems so wide that the only 5 boats anchored are los in it.
Our sailing here was perfect if not for the 2 or 3 hours motoring before a steady 10 to 12 knots wind on the beam pushed us at almost 7 knots on a flatten sea. The sun was warm and this sweet open ocean breeze carried promesses of our futures voyages. That gave us courage to complete some unfinished little projects bathing in the sun in between. Since the Levante, this annoying East wind coming from Gilbraltar is ruling the sky for a few days, we wait here enjoying these open but protected waters.
Tomorrow, it will be time to explore our new land...

picture from internet... laguna de Faro

Enough stories to write a book....

2010-04-06T12:42:00.011+02:00

Alvor anchorage...

What remains the same in the last 30 years is the experience of meeting remarkable characters. We are the “citizens of the sea”, extremely individualists. I am not talking about the “tourists” (as says Jacques our Belgium friend), the summer yachting crowd, the week-end cruiser or even the sabbatical cruiser young or older. No I mean the ones who chose this life style for what it is and for most of them with the point of non return.

There is always in every anchorage the percentage of bums who drown their sorrow in alcohol too scared to face the unknown of another shore. They cannot lift anchor anymore, tangled in the cheap life, cheap booze. Behind their ravage face are hidden some dramatic stories of sad destroyed dreams. They are those who without really any love or dream about seafaring left to escape society, problems. There too, are a lot of dramas, dissatisfaction, bitterness and even negativity. And then, the ones who are trapped in their own boat too big, too heavy too expensive to maintain. The single older guys who have lost the spark of adventure and discovery, a little jealous of the ones who keep going, of the couples who can rely on each other and share the joy and the hardship of sailing. They are too individualists to share their life, to find a crew, a companion. They rather settle in their routine, stay where it is safe where they have their habits, but keep dreaming of farther anchorages. Then there is the back lashed of lost fortunes where the boat becomes the last refuge and it is a self rediscovery in this more simple life where a business card is incongruous.

There are some strong moment where everyone lower their guard and reveal themselves without shame, hypocrisy around a table garnished with a good meal. Without doubts those confessions are easier to make knowing that we will part to probably never meet again... Social barriers, ages, nationalities are then non existent.

It is rare though, those moments. Some will always stay landlubbers simply transferring from land to boat their problems, inhibitions, tensions they thought they left behind. Those will be multiply by 10 in a small damp universe

30 years ago everything was simpler. We were fewer and had more or less the same background. We were before everything adventurers in our approach of sailing and life on a boat. Not much income, or none, we were jack of all trades. Our stories were often the same and we immediately connected. It was a seafarer community that is about to disappear. Now there is social classes in marinas, even anchorages, nationality barriers sometimes. And it is a shame.

Though once in a while we meet people we connect immediately with.Their stories are different but we feel that the same motivation drives us to where we all are now. We still all believe in our dreams, we realize them and are taking them a step farther without loosing our enthusiasm. We do not talk about the last electronic devices or boat gadget or the marinas and commodities our the latest sailing rally. We all try our best to avoid the main stream, and tend to leave the crowd behind.

Today we left our little floatting village, leaving some good friends. Some we will see again, some probably not, but we won't forget them. It is good to feel free again, and be able to choose when and where to go. It is a wonderful privilege.

But before we were able to leave, Magnus and friends had to untangle the chain from the mooring line. (I had secure the boat with the anchor during the storm, and with the tides, the chain made a few turn around the mooring line..)

a very special book

2010-04-03T17:48:00.001+02:00

We do not trade this one, it has its place of honor on board beside the log book. It is the mirror of our social life, us, the sea vagabonds. It is our memory log. At a time where internet, blogs, emails are overtaking our social lifes, this book is for me irreplaceable. I love to go through its pages which I hope will be soon rich of names, little notes of friendship, pictures and sometimes lovely little art pieces from aquarelles to poesie. It is an habit started 25 years ago during my first cruisings. At this time it was not inusual among cruisers, now days, I hardly see any of those on boats. It is too bad, and some may think I am old fashion, but I will carry on the old tradition and present my book to my guests, our friends we do not want to forget among an impersonnal email contact lists.

A new page, a new friend....

Röde Orm memory log.....

New sprayhood has arrived...

2010-03-26T12:12:00.001+01:00

Our coming and staying in alvor was entirely the consequences of the making of the sprayhood (dodger). No more than 3 weeks maximum should have been necessary to get it done and installed.
But it took 4 months mostly because of the lack of organisation and business manner of the craftman and also a certain bad luck when he raptured his Achilles tendon jogging a little too heartily. But now the nice well done spayhood is here and even the captain almost reluctant at the beginning seem to apreciate it. A second hand dinghy, nice and more sea worthy than the old one had been added, with a smal 2 hp power outboard. Then engine will be a good thing for security when the wind is blowing or when we are far from shore. But, we will keep rowing as much as we can...

(click on article title to access photo album)

Spring fever and itchy feet

2010-03-22T11:47:00.002+01:00

These last three months of winter have been a little boring and deceptive here in Alvor. In restrospect, may be it was not the perfect place to spend the winter on the boat, considering my own personal taste, even if the anchorage is very protected. Though, Algarve and Alvor were the obvious places logistically speaking..The natives are wary even some seem a little hostile of us foreigners. Alvor has really been sold, probably given away the last 30 years to the British mostly. The 2 main streets are ligned up with so many restaurants and bars that it is quite ridiculous. Everything is targeted for British often run by British who are masters in segregation, cultural, racial and social....

With this particularly harsh winter, there were not much to do or go, no way to work on the boat except for small inside projects. No really any hiking to do beside the beautiful beach and the little hill behind the village. I missed hiking a lot.

In short, that is not the Portugal we had started to like and apreciated on our way down the West coast.

But as the sun is shinning everything is looking brighter....

winter attack

2010-03-15T21:44:00.001+01:00

I am glad RödeOrm is not among them....

The day after my return, Magnus took off on his own mission leaving me in charge during 5 weeks. February has been the worst month of this worst winter in Europe since ages and we were not forgotten down here. We had near gales, and even gales right after another.

Rödeorm dragged anchor during the first blow though the wind was blowing no more than 35 knots, 40 knots. It was unexpected since we had stayed put on this anchor during 3 months even during a strong blow at Christmas. The holding is good in this deep muddy bottom, but tides and currents can shift the anchor and even make mud banks slid and shift also. Not wishing to reanchor at the same place, I took a mooring with the help of our Belgium friend. Seemingly strong and well maintained, I could not trust this mooring entirerly and I secured the boat on its anchor too. We had strong winds and rain every two days to the final gale of the season, a named one blowing 45 to 50 steady winds and gusts up to 60 knots during four five hours. I kept the engine on from the cockpit watch three unattended boats wash ashore on sand and rocks. The same gale pursued its way up the coast to severly hammered Vendée in France causing a lot of damage and death of more than 50 people. Combine with spring tides, flooding happened here too. Magnus came back when the game was over, just in time to finally enjoy the arrival of Spring with warmer and dryer weather. I am relieved and happy that February and its train of gales is behind us and that ahead of us, the so desired sprayhood is becoming a reality as our British sail maker has decided to put some energy into it !! But was this thing missed during those downpours !!

Enjoying a very old Gallic tradition

2010-01-25T10:55:00.001+01:00

Brioche

frangipane

A short stay in France was the perfect occasion to indulge in one of a very old culinary tradition the very French Galette des Rois.

A celebration of Christ being visited by the Magi, the epiphany was set to January the 6th by Pope Julius II. Also known as le jour des Rois, this is the day when the three kings are traditionally added next to the crib. Over the years, this religious festival overlapped with pagan traditions that went back to the Roman Saturnalia.

From the Middle Ages, the epiphany has been celebrated with a special Twelfth Night cake: la galette des rois, literally the King's cake. The galette differed according to the regions: for example it was made of puff pastry in Paris, but made of brioche and shaped as a crown in Provence. Under Louis XIV, the Church considered this festival as a pagan celebration and as an excuse for indulgence, and it was subsequently banned. To get around this ban, it became la fête du bon voisinage (literally, 'neighbourly relations day'). This culinary tradition even survived the French Revolution when it became the ‘Gâteau de l’Êgalité (the equality cake), as Kings were not very popular in those years!
The cake contains a lucky charm (une fève) which originally was a bean, a symbol of fertility. Whoever found the charm in their slice of cake, became King or Queen and had to buy a round of drinks for all their companions. This sometimes resulted in stingy behaviour and to avoid buying a round of drinks, the potential King or Queen very often swallowed the bean! This is why towards the end of the 19th and the beginning of the 20th centuries, the lucky charm started being made of china. The charm can take any shape or form and can either be very plain or more sophisticated (glazed or handpainted). It sometimes represents a religious figure such as the baby Jesus, but it can be virtually anything. Little horseshoe shapes are popular as they are thought to bring luck. Although nowadays very often made of plastic, old-fashioned china charms are still used and they have become a collectable item.
The modern Galette des Rois is made of puff pastry and can be plain or filled with frangipane, an almond-flavoured paste or the lighter brioche. It is sold in all French bakeries and eating the galette at the beginning of January is still a very popular tradition and an opportunity for families and friends to gather around the table. Now day, the tradition is extended to the entire month of January.Tradionally, the youngest person in the room (usually a child) hides under the table and shouts out which guest each slice of cake should be given to. The person who finds the fève in their slice of galette becomes the King or Queen and is given a golden paper crown. The King or Queen then has to choose his Queen or her King, by dropping the lucky charm in their glass.

it is winter here too...

2010-01-15T14:38:00.007+01:00

Since three weeks, we had fronts after fronts bringing a lot of rain and strong winds up to 45/50 knots in gust just before Christmas. Tremendous amount of rain provided us with plenty water for the tank and we could spare some to wash sheets and clothes. The only problem was to dry them. Fortunately one day out three was sunny and dry. It is quite unusual to have this kind of weather for so long here, but the rest of Europe is far more in trouble than us. Temperature can be as low at 35°F at night. But the wind can be a nonsense when we want to go ashore with the dinghy. Sometimes we just have to wait 2 or 3 days before being able to row ashore.
No luck with British sail makers.... After waiting for 3 weeks here in Alvor, mostly delayed by bad weather,(that was the excuse..) the guy just told us he partly broke in Achilles tendon and has to go back to UK. would he be able to resume the work in three weeks? Can we believe that ?
Having given him a deposit, we decided to wait since the weather is not settled anyway and Alvor is the best shelter we could find. So we are part of the little floating village of Alvor, 2 french boats, 1 Belgium, two or three British, one german.
Needless to say that we socialize easier with the French speaking crowd...

Today is our one year anniversary of moving on Röde Orm. A very big step for Magnus.

the picture above has been borrowed

Bom Natal, Merry Christmas !!

2009-12-26T20:25:00.001+01:00

Who need a laudromat when you have a viking at hand swallowing his pride as he decides to do the laundry on my birthday ? A night rain filled up the dinghy and what more fun to wash the bed sheets in it ! A foam bath could be next but the sun will have to reajust its thermostat. We also are victims here of a cold spell that freeze Europe. No ice or snow, but rain and wind and temperature below normal. Merry Christmas to my faithful readers and friends.

Alvor déja vu

2009-12-03T16:06:00.004+01:00

Alvor.. déjá vu

We are still waiting for the new dodger (spray hood) but we have definitely discarded the first sail maker, the one we waited for during 2 weeks... He has simply and shamelessly doubled his first estimate. Another british sailmaker has been recommended to us and was definitely more reasonable and agreedable. Since he has to order the Stainless Steel tubes and fabric, we have to wait another 10 days before completion. Alvor is only 5 miles away and it is a good change in scenery, close enough to come back for some fitting sessions and final installation.
Two years ago if someone had predicted I would come back to Alvor I would have shrugged in disbelief certain I would never again see this little village after an unscrupulous skipper (see entry "a little set back, November 2007) dropped me off on the pier.
It does not bring back bad memories though. Instead I like to think that without this rather unpleasant experience, I would never have met Magnus and Röde Orm. The anchorage is popular for shallow draft boats which can careen on the sand bank. The laguna entrance is shallow and narrow, barely marked by 2 buoys. Entering at mid flood is the best to spot the sand banks and stay in the channel. The anchorage is totally protected and lot more crowded than I remembered it. Obviously a chosen and cheaper place for some to winter their boats on mooring balls. The village is less genuine and more touristy than Ferragudo and the Brits seem to have taken over. Most are thankfully back home to their northern gloom. There is too many cafés and restaurant targeting the british community for my taste, but a lot are closed during the off season. The locals seem overwhelmed by the invasion and are more reserved toward us, the foreigners.
Notherless it is quiet with the nice surronding of dunes and cliffs with the Monchique mountains as a background, no cities or big resorts in view. The village seems to have survived the oveflow of tourists and keep some of its originality with its old houses and steep streets and a lovely church. We enjoy the nice modern swimming pool, two steps from the anchorage.

nosing around...

2009-11-27T18:02:00.003+01:00

The sign that we have over prolonged our stay here is that today the leader of the village mutt band a.k.a "the rag" allowed us to pet his bushy rasta coat. He had ignored us totally before. In his little dog mind, he just thinks he gave us today resident status...

There is always half a dozen of mutts from the village trotting back and forth down to the waterfront where action is.

Small, result of endless mixture of breeds, gentle and pacific there are part of the village life as much as the fishermen mending their nets on the pier or the elderly men who sit at the terrasse of the cafés. I could even say irreverently that they look alike : husky, skin of hair seasoned by wind and sun, sociable, modest, they enjoy life at peace with their surroundings and neighbors.

Locals, dogs, cats and humans live in a fragile harmony since generations but will that be compromised by an ugly project of resort/marina on Ferragudo shores ? Where will go our little mutts do their mishief or the elderlies for their daily walk if not on the marshy shores which are menaced by the project ?

Chilly mornings in Algarve....

2009-11-20T12:31:00.004+01:00

Silves and its fortress

Portimaõ was a premeditated long stop as we plan to have a dodger (spray hood) made, but it became longer than predicted as the sailmaker who is supposed to make it is now delivering a boat from the UK and has been delayed by bad weather in Biscay.
By avoiding the marina and the sterile and tacky touristic resort of Las Rochas, we find the area pleasant especially where we are anchored in front of the charming genuine little fishing village of Ferragudo on the east side of the river Arade.
Zephyr left for the Canary islands and as we wait for our canvas guy we plan to go on to Olhaõ and Faro, then to the Guadiana river. Though the nights are getting colder (9-7 celsius) and we almost regret our decision to stay around for winter, decision dictated by the logistic of going back North beginning of summer and leaving the boat somewhere around here for a few weeks. But the sun is still shinning and warm, and the region worth while discovering.
The Algarve, poor region of Portugal discovered a new gold mine with tourism. The northerners, mostly Bristish, German and Dutch are invading the region bringing inflation, bad taste and a certain arrogance in big contrast to the gentleness and low profile of the natives. But here, the excesses of tourism are not too obvious and the spectacular coast is preserved and the off season calm.
We pay a visit to Silves a former important urban center for the ancien islamic Gharb Al-Andalus during the 10th to the 13th century. Surrounded by orange groves the city is dominated by the Almohad forteress built in rusty red colored adobe bricks. The ruins of the Almohad palace, its gardens, baths and impressive water cistern give us an idea of how this mighty palace must have looked. The charming city nowdays indicates that the Algarve was never a rich region even under the Arab dominance who imported the art of growing citrus and irrigation system to this bare and arid land.

Ferragudo at dawn from the cockpit

toward the Algarve coast

2009-11-02T13:04:00.002+01:00

Röde Orm and Cape Saõ Vincente

One always have preconceptions about commercial harbors, especially when looking at a chart. They do not incite you to prolong your stay. But Sines is worth knowing. It is a petro chimical harbor but also a very charming city which is the birth place of Vasco de Gama. It kept its authenticity without the touristic glittering part. It is modest, simple and sympathic. The walled old city on the waterfront is a place where we like to wander. Its people are very laid back and nice and always helpfull.

The anchorage in front of the beach between the two jetties is often rolly with those southerly winds that bring the swells in pass the long outer jetty of the comercial harbor. We wait three days before the northerlies winds come back. We leave with a cloudy sky and very weak winds despite a high pressure. We have to motor three quarter of the 63 miles. We pass the mighty Cap Sao Vincente under sail before turning at right angle east toward the Algarve coast. We pass the second point, Sagres where we anchor in a wide bay in company of Zephyr. The capes and cliffs are impressive vertical walls, becoming shadows of black forteresses and mighty castles under the moon light. We dine in the cockpit as soon as anchored, the air is warm and Magnus cannot keep marvelling at the wonder of dining outside on november 2....

entrance of Rio Arade, Portimaõ

Time to move on

2009-10-29T11:30:00.002+01:00

Lisbon kept us in her web and it is leisurely that we enjoy Cascais anchorage which off season is calm exept during week-ends when the local fleet sails in for a few hours before going back home.

A southern low front gave us excuses to prolong our stay and we indulge in another visit to Lisbon and its maritime museum.

Wait for the perfect northerly breeze is out of question. The forecast calls for southerly, very weak during a few days still and we are becoming itchy to go on our southerly route. So it is time to haul the anchor. A dense fog on the Tajo entrance and along the coast is the result of the humid front that we had. It clears up after 2 hours but the wind is less than 5 knots as predicted. Sesimbra is only 20 miles away so we motor and it is the excuse to give a good charge to the batteries. We drop anchor close to Zephyr once again, since we follow the same route. It is a very active and lively little fishing harbor and all night long the small colorful fishing boats keep coming in and out escorted by a cloud of loud shreaking gulls. The high cliffs dry and bare offer very few harbors along this coast. Sines is the next one and this time we have the chance to sail for a while before giving up half way. A very impressive long northwest swell lift mountains of water before crashing with tremendous splashes along the coast and at the end of the broken old jetty of the commercial harbor of Sines.

Royal galleon at the maritime museum

A walk in the past

2009-10-15T16:52:00.003+02:00

Sintra at 15 kms from Cascais is the witness of the extravaganza of wealth during several centuries of power starting from the moors in the 8th century who installed a mighty forteress up hill. Their influence is reflected in all the old buildings of the city. Its centuries old mansions are a reminder of a city of power and other houses built later in the 16 and 17 th centuries show how Sintra became a resort summer place for the royal families when the power definietely was transferred to Lisbon.
The Royal Palace is an extraordinary proof of the massive moor influence with its delicate and subtil architecture, arch, tiles and fontains. Used as a royal palace from the 15 th to 16 th century, parts have been added, modified to suit the fashion of the time. Tiles and colors of moors style is mixed with the flashy gold trimming and painting of the 16 th century. It is regal for the eyes and imagination to walk through the huge palace and its numerous rooms which is a showcase for priceless pieces of furniture. Two enormous chemineys, quite incongrous have been added by one of the king to air the pristine huge white tiled kitchen. Everywhere in town the eye is sollicited by a beautifully tiled wall, an old roof a sinewy street and the luxurious vegetation. Of course, we wander in the back streets around the old town where we found some well hidden villas and mansion of the last centuries with rich gardens guarded by big stone walls. Down the valley the vegetation is mixed and very rich. The forteress de Los Moros above seems to guard this little paradise.

Lisboa

2009-10-12T12:58:00.003+02:00

Sailing for me is also and mainly discovering new places, playing at exploraters in a world where there is nothing new to discover. Certainly, for me Lisbon was anything but new since I have spent 3 weeks at port 22 years ago ! But I rediscovered it with great pleasure walking for hours from the flashy imposing Belem, through the more popular and blue collar Alcantara neighborhood to the old and timeless Lisbon and its maze of steps and narrow streets. I was a poor guide to Magnus though since I could only rememeber the places once we were already there. It was hot and the cobblestone streets and sidewalks hard on our feet. We enjoyed the tiny old fashion shops and as usual ended up more than once in the ever popular hardware stores full of treasures. Lisbon is one of the most agreable capital I have been to. its atmosphere is more of a village. We don't feel the stress and maddness of a big metropolis. It is old fashion, anarchist in its lay out. Old and timeless in its old neighborhoods up hill dominating the harbor. Modern part of the city.. do not know, it is not in view anywhere.. We walked from Belem and its impressive monastery which now harbor museums. The water front is huge and airy with wide as boulevards cobblestone sidewalks, gardens, plazas and parks and the either present mighty statues of a king or explorer. Then we strolled down the more modest and popular back streets of the commercial harbor to find ourselves all the sudden in the seclusive embassies quarters up and down hills before arriving in the heart of Lisbon, to the huge esplanade with its wavy pattern of two color cobblestones. It is closed to traffic and it is the showcase of select shops, numerous bars and restaurants. Just a few steps to the right up the hill and we found ourselves climbing steep staircases above the red roofs along beautifully tiled walls where the old timeless Lisbon hides its heart. it is a pleasure to get lost in purpose in all the sinewy stairways and streets to discover the soul of a village called Lisbon.

south run

2009-10-09T12:50:00.002+02:00

The winds veered north after the southern blow that kept us in port. It is time to continue our southern migration. We left Lexoeis with a calm weather. The swells have come down and Magnus is happy to hoist the spinnaker which has seldom being hoisted. It will push us for 10 hours when during the night, the wind picks up to a steady 15 knots and as my watch starts, I rather have it down. Even with the main reefed we keep going at 5.5 knots as the wind strenghten to 25 for some time before coming down again. The sea is manageable and the Aries can steer at last with only the main sail up on the downwind run. A second reef is even taken without slowing us at all. No traffic on the coast, not even fishingboats. How strange ! but peaceful with a starry sky and a yellow moon. We arrived at 4 pm at Cascais this old resort town at the entrance of the Tejo river which leads to Lisbon. It is saturday and lot of local boats are anchored in front of the town and its beaches. We meet again Zephyr, the 42 ft elegant classic sloop and its two energetic and enthusiastic young owners Colin and Steve. We are down to latitude 38 and it is hotter and the sea water is even warmer... 66 F. Still too cold for me though.

A taste of Port...o

2009-10-07T11:14:00.004+02:00

Listening to the wind blowing through the rigging and grinning our teeth at the whistling of the neighbor's windgenerator, we feel lucky for being in safe harbor tonight. A south wind blows 25 to 30 knots and a good amount of rain already soaked several times my laundry trying to dry on the line. We left the Ria de Vigo, via a little stop at Bayona, on its south side to get some diesel with the last north wind, very weak to none before the arriving of a low pressure which brought us the first bad weather in six weeks.

Lexoeis is a refuge harbor with a marina squeezed at the end of the commercial harbor protected by a huge jetty. Dirty and smelly so close to the fishing harbor, it has however a certain appeal if not charm. It is more lively, actif, more genuine than the usual marina, far from any upper class or nouveau riches ambiance. And then Porto is not far, 5 km and we can forget the sordid surrounding of the marina. It is the third time I come to Porto, 22 years in between. ..Nothing have changed really downtown. We stumbled over huge plazas with mighty sculptures of some saints or forgotten explorers, churches at every corner. Having a glance at the Douro down ill, we decided to get closer to it and took one of the multiple narrow streets which end up in winding steep steps, over 6 century old, wondering what we gone find round the next curve. One run down façade of a former mighty house joins a neat typical ceramic tile wall from the next house as old as the steps themselves. We soon arrived at the water front where the majestic Eiffel bridge steps over the river Douro. The laundry dries hanging from the balconies just above the head of the tourists eating at the terrace of restaurants. The small non appealing little restaurants which advertised economic menus at 3 euros are back to back with the more select ones offering to the tourist the same menu twice or three times the price.

The cellars of Port wine are a big touristic attractions now days and I have nostalgic memories of some visits at Sandeman Port cellar where the wine was largely offered for tasting with no charge. Without my parents noticing it at first, I also tasted some nice vintages...I was six years old. Now the tasting is not free in most of the big houses. But, why paying when that can be found free some streets up the hill in another big cellar where it is harder to get so less visited by the mass. We always prefer back streets to the more flashy touristic streets of a big city.

So we had our free visit and free tasting in the cellars Croft. And a dish of the day at 3 euro 50 with some crisp vinho verde in front of the river close to the big Sandeman Port cellar was perfect. Porto has charmed me once again. It is a town full of treasure at each corner of its sinewy streets. It is lively and its people genuine, friendly and welcoming.

Meanwhile as we are stuck here by the weather, we use the advantage of a marina, the electricity, to start some improvements to the chart table, redesign it to fit the computer safely.

Farewell Galicia

2009-09-27T16:58:00.002+02:00

Ciès island anchorage

We are almost through with the Ria's cruise. Galicia offered us some very nice anchorages in the 10 rias visited. The last ones, the largest were different but not for the same reasons. Arusa, huge was mostly a mussels farming ground with commercial and fishing harbors and cannery industry. Pontevedra with its nice beaches a tourist playground set in a beautiful large ria protected by the island on Ons, a national park. We have prefered the smallest one with little fishing harbors where we could anchor behing a jetty or in front of a little marina or yacht club where we could row to fill up some water jugs. We were lucky to have a splendid weather since one month. Hot, sunny, but windless.... But the big cloudless blue sky and calm waters compensated this. The only downside to Galicia, is the water temperature... no more than 62 F. What a pity !!

Vigo is the last of the ria before Portugal and its less friendly coast. We anchored out at Ciès Island protecting the ria from swells, and we are waiting for the return of the wind in some numerous little anchorages in front of a cove or beach on the north side of the Ria, just in front of the big city of Vigo.

the biggest Ria, Arousa

2009-09-21T21:08:00.001+02:00

The giant high is welcome of course, but it is blocking all the wind. We try to hoist sails as much as we can when we see wrinkles on the sea surface... Lot of work for nothing, most of the time. Though the swells disapeared, which is good under those circonstances when no wind conterbalance the boat... The Ria de Arousa is the biggest, more than 10 miles deep and the mussels industry is very important. Almost all the shores are blocked by mussels beds. We anchor at Carminal, a little town protected in a bay. A commercial wharf hosts two small freighters and a small marina lays on the other side in front of the fishing harbor. The anchorage in front of the beach is deserted, we set our anchor in the middle. The small city is not touristic at all, but very active with a fish cannery. The old part of the city hides itself behind the water front. Some small shedded plazas are surrended by numerous bars all occupied after the siesta hours. We arrived around 8 pm and a little fair was going on, with musics, attractions etc... then at midnight, a very nice firework started just a few hundred meters in front of us.... The fiesta went on until the first hours of dawn...

On the other side of the known world....

2009-09-19T21:06:00.002+02:00

On the other side of the know world...

The weather is wonderful this morning : sun, calm sea, the swells are in vacation, but the wind also. A few puffs of wind let us hope for a nice breeze as we leave this very nice anchorage. We pass Cap Finistere under a beautiful sun and we enjoy this new mile stone in our voyage. From now on, we will be heading south. We enter the narrow Ria de Corcubion, tucked behind Finistere. It is a fishing harbor, without any touristic or cruising faciities, as most of the small Rias. We are the only strangers, the red ketch among small fishing boats in the anchorage. As we walk in the sleepy village on this nice Sunday afternoon, an old lady stopped us and asked us where we come from. Sweden ! very far, very north !! If I could almost look as a Galician woman, Magnus would have a hard time hiding his nordic origins... We can tell that there are not so many tourists coming to visit Corcubion... St Jacques de Composte is not very far, and is the place people go see. We won't.

On our way to the Corner of Spain

2009-09-18T21:03:00.001+02:00

Cape villano

Fog, of course this morning, with all the humidity of yesterday... Though it seems to clear up on the ocean. But no wind, and swells always. And of course, the fog was just waiting for us to get out of the ria. We have to navigate with the radar until we arrive in view of the breakwater in the Ria de Camarinas. It is a splendid bay, with calm water in front of a small city. The calm is a relief after the swells and the sun shows itself, enough for us to dry our damp clothes. There is 4 others boats anchored in the bay that could easily harbor hundred more boats without problems. We are a few miles from Cap Finisterre, where we will turn south. We just passed cap Villano and are in the Costa de los Muertos. What stories are behind that name !!!

A Ria hides another one...

2009-09-17T20:58:00.002+02:00

entrance of la Coruna harbor the tiny fishing harbor of Corme

This morning, as we leave the anchorage, we almost regret to have indulged ourselves yesterdays with 3 little beers on our neighbor's boat, celebrating a birthday. The young crew of the nice classic boat from Guernessey follow the same route and we have once seen them in Vivero. Though, we did not drink more than 3 little beers, this morning we have to fight nausea with bananas and sandwiches right away... No wind, and a big swell, 3 to 5 meters according to the local weather station. The sky is grey, and rain showers in the forecast. The 32 miles without wind under the rain tossed around by the huge swells are not very pleasant. We enter in the Ria de Corme under the rain which keep pouring all evening long. We are the only boat anchored inside the breakwater in a small fishing harbor very charming, though we do not see much of it.

toward la coruna

2009-09-16T20:45:00.002+02:00

The Ria de Ares north east of La Coruna welcomed us during 5 days. It was such an agreadable and well protected place that we did not feel like going to the big harbour of La Coruna. But the fresh water foot pump started to act up. With no replacement kit and no new pump, we had to go to the city to get parts. We anchor behind the huge breakwater which protects us against the wind but also the swells. It is deep though, 60 feet, very close to the wall, with possibly foul bottom as it said on the Guide. The old city is busy with big restoration projects everywhere. The architecture and structure of the old and new city is very anarchist with a rococo begining of the century style. There is a very active spanish energy off the well respected siesta hours of course... We have to walk few kilometers to find the proper store, order the pump which arrived the next day. Meanwhile, some nasty grey clouds and showers pass by.

Hercule's tower, the oldest lighthouse in the world

the Rias ballad....

2009-09-08T11:40:00.004+02:00

Slowly, the Galician coast drifts on our portside. We move on unusually calm waters that th

e wind has forgotten for a little while. The lack of wind is not in our favor, but the calmness of the water is apreciated. We already have experiemented the heavy swell in a rough sea by force 4 to 6 wind as we left Ribadeo and Vivero. This morning we left the Ria de Cedeira, beautiful wooded ria with a protected anchorage. Vivero was bigger, less protected against the swell but we found refuge behind a tiny islet close to shore. The little coves nested below the cliff look like the ones in Brittany. But here, the coast is elevated, and behind the mountains Cantabric are not far away. The water

is cold, and the night saturated with dew are getting colder. The days are still warm and sunny and very apreciated. The fog is a risk and this morning it waited for us a few miles from the coast. The radar is on.... Cabo Ortegal, the

northest cap in Spain is passed, Cabo Finisterre is the next, an important crossroad, since we will sail south after rounding it.

And as I write this using the power provided by the engine.... Magnus caught his first fish on this boat !!! A mackerel, tiny but soon 2 others caught on the same line are added to it to make a very nice dinner.

2 months, already

2009-09-01T17:25:00.003+02:00

Ribadeo marina where we spent 4 days, waiting for more favorable conditions.

A little look back considering the crossing of Biscaye was a major step south.

the first one was the North Sea and Channel with its fog and traffic,

the second was the coast of Brittany with its open ocean, rocky traps and considerable tides.

the third the Bay of Biscaye which is always remembered for its bad seas and dangerous breaking waves. during gales.

Since we do not want to strand ourselves in a tight schedule we did not manage too badly waiting for the right weather windows, in this quite rotten summer. Most of the time the wind was too light and from the wrong direction, but since the good weather windows were unusually short, we just went when no lows were in sight.

July was lousy, cool, cloudy, rainy sometimes. It is not before the second week of August that we felt summer and relaxed more, enjoying more.

We had expected wind in the North Sea, they were none, just flat sea and fog. We expected an heavy ship traffic, they were some yes, mostly seen of the radar, but never frightening or putting us in any harmway since we stayed clear of their lines. We expected even heavier traffic across the Channel, as people fear it so much, they rather go via Scotland and Ireland. The traffic in fact was sparse and the wind still absent.

Brittany's waters were negociated with much care respecting the tides and numerous rocks, choosing good weather, though in this case, it did not bring much wind...

The Bay of Biscaye from Brittany to Spain, if carefully planned is nothing more than 300 miles of open ocean. We started close haul for a while with a light wind, then as the wind veered, we continued beam reach as it became force 4 to 5, then to 6 the last day and night. It is important to favor west for 70 miles to clear the continental shelf, where heavy swells can be dangerous in rough weather. The weather pattern varies a lot and changes fast, but with a window of 4 to 5 days, it is not a problem. The arrival on the Nothern coast of Spain can be more challenging as very common heavy swells rise great seas and obstruct some of the not too easy entrances of Rias. The moutains Cantabrico in Asturias and Galicia create some termical wind patterns than can be surprising if not aware of them. This coast is not to be taken lighty, though the sun and the warmth let us think we are in gentle seas. None of that, the fierce Atlantic come rushing from its nearby 5000 meter depht on to the cliffs of Galicia and Portugal. 3 to 5 meters swells are not uncommon, no need to mention their size during a force 7 on up. I have experimented it once, it is enough ! So beating to windward with more than force 4 is out of question on a 32 ft.

open ocean

2009-08-27T19:07:00.002+02:00

a last treat, some wild oysters we picked up, a last taste of Brittany, wild and salty..

A good weather window cannot be missed, northerly winds coming with a good old high pressure are here to stay a few days. We leave for 286 miles of open water crossing the Bay of Biscay which have its reputation.... But the odds are good, and a "jolie brise" takes us at a fast pace away from the continental shelf. Röde Orm rides the swell and offer us a smooth rides over a force 4 to 5 beaufort almost close hauled for a while. The movement of the boat are astonishly comfortable considering the agitated sea, and the spray over its deck seldom. The wind is agreeable this time, and a soon north westerly then north wind settled under a starry sky. It even became force 6 as we approach the spanish coast, forcing us to take 2 reefs, just to slow down trying to avoid a night arrival. The boat keeps a good speed, and we have to face a night approach. Ria de Ribadeo has an easy entrance and with the help of GPS, and radar, we soon are anchored in a little bay, which protect us from the heavy swell than can develop on this coast. At 4 o'clock, tired but happy, we secure everything for the night and just drop to bed, having just guest the surroundings by its shadowy contours.

Belle Ile, our last taste of Brittany

2009-08-26T18:56:00.002+02:00

Higher, mighter, Belle île (the beautiful island) stands between the mighty Atlantic and the Brittany coast to protect her from the big swells. With westerly winds, there is some anchorages along the leeward side. There is always a little cove of golden sand accessible by dinghy and the coastal path which runs all around the island on top of the cliff, has access to allow us to go to Le Palais, the main harbor, 3 kilometers away. We rent some bicycles. I have bicycled already once during a few days all over the island, but I never get tired of it, enjoying every little hamlets, wild fields and wooded valleys. The island itself smells of wild flowers, of tides, it tastes of salt, of raw oyster. its micro climate allows some very mixed vegetation unknown elsewhere. Its wild coast surrenders to the Ocean which keeps beating her, shaping her, the mighty cliffs hide some tremendous caves where the waves crashes like geysers, exploding in a tremendous thunder roar. As we come back to the boat at dusk after a wonderful day and a good pizza in town, a very hidden wish come back from the secret part of my mind, a forgotten desire, an unaccessible dream. To own a tiny little granit house where I could come back to for a while, to feel, to smell, to taste Brittany, to enjoy the ocean from a base, still surrounded by the Ocean which have carried me away so many time. A so well known melancholy and nostalgia have woken up those last weeks in Brittany. But it is here in Belle île at the eve of departing for Spain, that I feel it to an extent I never felt before. So long Belle île, Kenavo Houat.

off to the islands

2009-08-25T18:51:00.002+02:00

The peaceful pace of the river bewitched us a little and almost reluctantly we got ready to pull up the anchor after a full week dedicated to some little projects, purchasing of some stuff at the two chandleries and have even a repair done on the bow roller. La Vilaine wanted us to stay longer too as a thick fog surprises us the early morning of our departure. We almost missed the 8 o'clock opening of the lock waiting for the fog to lift. But the boat make up the decision for us. As we pull up half of the chain, we realize there is no hope to see anything for a while, so we abort everything and as the water is so still do not bother to add more chain,. Nothing to do but go back to bed for a while.... As I check for some break in the sky, I realize that Röde Orm despite the perfect stillness has drifted gently toward the shore. A pale light gives us some hope, and we decide to go, following the other boats in front of us in the lock. The fog lift at the approach of the sea and a splendid weather smiles on us, sunny, warm, but very calm. A very slight breeze encourages the captain to hoist his spinnaker, he had done it just once before ! It is a good exercice, even if it last a too short moment. Very soon the bright sail hangs shamefully, as a bed sheet on a drying line....
Houat, the little island south of Belle île offers one of its beautiful anchorage to us, but also to 60 or more other boats on this beautiful sunday.... Most of them will go back to the main land in the evening. Houat (the duck) has kept all her charm and it is a privileged place with its little carless village. An out of time place, untouched even if tourism takes over during 2 months of the year. I had loved this island at first sight 30 years or so ago. I came back several times and found always the same attraction. And as if I had lived here in a former life, I feel attracted by the island, wishing to stay for a season, for even a full winter.

in land Brittany, always close to water

2009-08-11T18:45:00.004+02:00

We spent 3 days, in Rezé my home town enjoying life, good food, good wine and family..And then, without any break, we went right to my cousin's Creperie "la Gavotte" on the Nantes to Brest Canal (Quily, close to le Roc St André) and enjoy more food and family. I had promise Magnus the best galettes in the world, done the traditional way with a Sarrazin flour milled the old fashion way. And do not forget the artisanal cider, brut and smooth. The deep Bretagne is there, along the canal with its little village, granit, flowers and water, and what more, even the sun is there !

Roc St André on the canal Nantes-Brest

Toward la Vilaine (the ugly), though beautiful river

2009-08-06T18:37:00.003+02:00

Here you have to deal and cooperate with the sea and the weather. It has been too early to leave with the tide in the morning to deal the treacheous chenal in the dark and too late in the afternoon to go somewhere before dark. So today, we got up at 5 waiting for day light to leave before the tide turns again. Soon we can leave safely to avoid the sand bar and to be able to see the chenal. The long westely swell welcoms us, but the wind is in vacation too.... We motor the 40 miles to the entrance of the Vilaine River to Arzal where we pass through the lock. Up the lock, the river is domesticated and not affected by the tides. It is wide and deep and we can anchor in very nice and peaceful little place along the sides. La Roche Bernard, 3 miles and a half up river is a very nice little town which has kept all her originality when in the 16th century, this harbor on the river was a very busy building ships for the East Indies Company. It is where we will meet my parents.

did we deserve Le Pouldu ?

2009-07-31T18:28:00.004+02:00

You have to deserve Le Pouldu as said Jean, Michel and Annika's friend and neighbor. I guess we did... On the river Laïta, which runs to Quimperlé, Le Pouldu is a very small harbor accessible only at high tide. Its chenal is narrow and shallow. On one side, the beach and rocks, on the other one a moving sand bar. Finistére on portside, Morbihan on starboard. At the village, a "deep water" chenal allows to moor boats on mooring balls, on line. It is a trap since we have to count on the tides to leave and also on good weather since waves can break on the bar at the entrance. We stay 4 days, 2 more than expected, but Michel and Annika make our stay the most agreadable inviting us in their nice home right on the cliff above the beach. We make some trips to Lorient during the interceltique festival, to Merrien and Doelan, two little harbors extremely charming at the mouth of small rivers. Everyone in Le Pouldu welcomes us warmly and that

compensated greatly the hardship of getting in and out of this tiny harbor...

Les Glénans

2009-07-30T18:15:00.002+02:00

The sun shines, the sea is flat and pleasant but the air is still too cold for the season. We motor lazily(batterie charging, since the regulator for the solar panels is broken..) We anchor at Penfret the eastern island in a small nice anchorage near a white sand beach nested between rocks. The colorful little sails of the boat from the famous Glénans sailing school brighten the emerald clear water. We hike a long while on the tiny island gathering some shell fish for dinner and watching with dismay a canibal seagull eating alive

one of her own... Disturbing sight. Life and death go on even on this beautiful morning.

friends and plans....

2009-07-29T18:07:00.003+02:00

Strong winds, and gust to 6 and rain keep us in harbor. It it not a weather to enjoy the islands of Glénans. Our friends from Falsterbo (Annika, swedish has a house in Höllviken) came to visit us. Michel, breton has a family house in Le Pouldu, not very far from Lorient. They drove us to Pont l'Abbé up river from Loctudy where the sun came back after our visit to the museum of the Pays Bigouden (the region around Pont l'Abbé). They invited us to visit them in Le Pouldu on the river Laita. It is a good refuge, but the entrance has to be managed at high water plus or minus one hour.

Raz de Sein, another famous rocky trap...

2009-07-27T18:43:00.004+02:00

Neptune is on our side again... We spent two nice days in the beautiful Camaret at the extreme point of the Crozon Peninsula. We played tourists, hiking on the trails of the mighty cliff almost at the point of Penn hir, we went down a pristine beach borded by high cliff filled with mussels colonies at their bottom. To make the Raz, between the point of Brittany and the Islandof Sein, we have to depart at 11 am to be at slack water at the entrance. It is a very dangerous place, a string of rocks which extends for several miles. As a short cut, for smaller vessels, there is a passage which needs to be negociated carefully with the tides. We did well, because it was a very smooth passage close to the very impressive lighthouse "la Vieille". We continued toward Loctudy after passing the Pointe de Penmarc'h, turning East and having a wonderful ride under sail. The entrance at night in the small harbor of Loctudy is a challenge, but again, the tide was with us and after some stressful moment finding the right spot, we took a mooring buoy.

The can be redoutable Chenal du Four

2009-07-25T18:38:00.000+02:00

To reach the lighthouse of the Four at the entrance of the 12 miles chanel we have to arrive at slack to benefit from the change of tide. We leave Aber Wrac'h at the end of the high tide with a great blue sky and a bright if not warm sun at 9 am.

It is a noisy but peaceful trip under motor in the wide well marked chenal. We see Ouessant and Molène islands and we can have a test of its temperament when at St Mathieu Point, the water suddendly became very agressive. Short breaking waves tossed the boat around for 10 minutes, then calmed down again. No need for a storm to disturb those waters. a simple fresh wnnd against the tide can lead you in serious trouble.

A stop at Camaret at the tip of the Crozet peninsula is a perfect rest. We anchor in a fairly large bay in front of a Vauban fort, The Raz de Sein this second Breton Cap Horn is only 18 miles away. But we enjoy Camaret another day, hiking the hills toward the mighty rocks

Land of the Sea

2009-07-24T18:32:00.002+02:00

The wind is favorable enough as the tide pushes us in the right direction. We sail and enjoy almost 5 hours of it close to the wind. We enter the very small entrance of Primel Tregastel where we moore at a visitor buoy. It is a fishing harbor mostly with a big wharf and a few buoys. It is absolutly pristine with its big sharp rocks guarding the entrance like knights in armour. We are in spring tides and magically the landscape

changes as the tide rises more than 32 feet !

We won't go on shore, as we leave early in the morning. We decide to go between Roscoff and Batz island through a narrow channel. Reed, the British nautical almanach fills us with cautions and advices almost scaring us to attempt anything out of the main chanels. But it is simple, straightforward as the chenal is well marked ant it is a pleasure to speed at 7 knots so close to this very cute island. We sail only for a too short time though, We have to motor to reach Aber Wrac'h before the reverse of tide. We decide to go through the chenal de la Malouine, one of the 3 which enter Aber in between rocks. This one is more direct for us, but according to Reed risky.Well, in fact there is no problems with good weather and visibility. not a big deal at all !! Aber Wrac'h is a very attractive place nested among green cliffs, oyster farms on either side showing only at low tide. We moor at a visitor buoy in front of a new marina and soon, despite of the still strong current of a spring tide, we row to shore. The coast of Brittany leaves with the rythm of the tides, landscape change every 6 hours, new colors, new odors. We come back from the village up hill with our newly bake bread, cheese and saucisson. The shorline has disapeared the water has risen more than 30 feet again. Strong winds are forecast for tomorrow, so we will stay in port.

I will sleep in Brittany tonight....

2009-07-24T18:28:00.002+02:00

The trail of low pressure does not seem to slow down between. Between two, a weather window opens but the wind is still south west but light enough. We leave Guernsey for Perros Guirrec 50 miles south west. We have to motor more than we wish to reach the harbor before night. The weather welcoming me back to Brittany is typical : drizzle, low and perturbated grey skies. The sharp rocks which lay far into the sea rimind us constantly to be very careful with our navigation. We take a visitor buoy in the well protected anchorage behind the mighty Tomé island and in front of the green cliff of Pointe du Château. Without an outboard, rowing the dinghy is a challenge when negociating the tide and the wind. We are always too far from shore (tidal range). We manage it without any problem, Magnus loves to row ! Perros Guirrec is a charming village very Breton, with its sturdy granit houses with slates roofs adorned by big bushes of hortensia, our breton national flower. Tourism does not spoil the coast which is protected, no high building, no flashy hotels, the nature surrounding looks almost unspoiled in its raw beauty.

a little taste of Guernsey

2009-07-15T18:24:00.003+02:00

the marina at low tide
Up hill
Fort Cornet
St Peter from the anchorage

It was not our primary choice to stop at Guernsey, and surely not to stay at the marina. But Eole decided for us again. A train of low pressure front and a specially vicious one which lingers north of us bring some contrary winds. The anchorage was untenable and we decided to move to the marina. Every 6 hours, the tides allow the entrance through a sill. It is full season, a lot of boats come in and out. Although despite the crampy feeling everything goes smooth, quietly and evenings and nights are quiet.

The tides decided for us.....

2009-07-11T19:38:00.002+02:00

A low pressure stole our nice high while we were around playing on land.... We waited for the return of favorable winds at Wight at anchor. We were far enough from shore (tides oblige..) that it was impossible to row the dinghy against the tides. A west-north west wind do not incite us to go on along the South UK coast. But we felt restless, and decided to go South, toward the Cotentin peninsula in Normandy, instead of jumping south from a more western point in UK.

A fresh breeze gives us a nice and fast crossing in a Channel not at all as busy as everyone says... Though it is spring tides (full moon) and as we arrive toward the coast to Cherbourg a strong tidal stream stop us. Running the engine, we gain only 1 or 2 knots for several hours. The wind is against us also of course... At the change of the tide, we gain 3 to 4 knots in the right direction and we decide to forget a night arrival in Cherbourg. Instead we keep going west riding the tide and taking advantage of the strong tidal stream along the coast. After a rought night motoring tide against wind in a confused sea we arrive in view of Guernsey which seems very appealing. With the tide on our side, we anchor in St Peter. We have learnt a lessons : never under estimate the power of tides in the region which with New Foundland has the most tidal amplitude.. Avoid having them against you that is all !

Portsmouth and the heart of England

2009-07-03T19:25:00.001+02:00

Our young friends, Dave and Jennifer invited us to spend 2 days where Jenny lives in Whalybridge, 400 kms north of Portmouth, close to Manchester. This trip gives us a good glimpse at the ever traditional and tamed British countryside. It is lovely and very green with rolling smooth hills and winding countryroads lined with stone walls. The villages are tidy with flowery gardens and well kept houses which reveal the love of cosy indoor life the British have.

An evening stroll under the moon to the local country pub was the finale after a nice barbecue dinner with our friends. They took us along a wooded path which like in the best novels followed an old cemetery lighted by a bright moon. The air was heavy with the smell of wet grass after the afternoon heavy showers. The 30 minutes stroll put us in a perfect mood for some good ale at the Shady Oak, the old traditional country pub. At 1 o'clock, when we left the still busy place, it was pitch dark. No flashlights, who needs any when our guide has a superb night vision and leaded us hand in hand through a short cut of the already short cut... crossing fences

, down a creek, following a muddy path. Completely blind, we staggered down the path admiring stars and feeling exhalirated by this little adventurous episode in the tame

Britain.

We returned to Portsmouth via Stonehenge, this magic place, cousin of the Carnac standing stones field in Brittany which I know very well. Although, as the latest, we cannot approach the stones, I felt the same power and mystery of a unknown past when those same hills were still wild. I would have loved to touch those big erected stones for ever witnesses of century of mankind who across time have always admire and worship them.

toward the Solent, Isle of Wight

2009-06-30T19:10:00.002+02:00

The North Sea shook her foggy mood this morning and there is almost a tropical atmosphere,, without the trade winds.. beautiful weather, great serenity on the water almost blue. The night has been smooth under sail, slow though. The light north east breeze keeps us going and solar cream and hat are a necessity. Taking advantage of the beautiful weather, we try to go on along the south coast in the attempt to reach the best point to sail to Brittany after the meeting with a young friend of Magnus, doctor who prepared a quite impressive medical kit for us.

Dover

2009-06-29T19:07:00.000+02:00

Pea soup and traffic as tedious as in an airport... We sneak toward the harbor feeling our way as a blind man. The radar is our white cane, our faithful dog. We would never had attempted a landing in those conditions in this unknown harbour as busy as a modern airport without it. It would have been suicidal !

We feel like flying a little Cessna hovering above with the big jumbos jets waiting to sneak in between them at the order of the air controller. We have to call the harbor master, then wait at a certain point for his order to go in. Chased down by a holling demon blowing his siren in our ears, we have nearly time to turn hard to starboard toward the hidden coast when a brief tear in the fog speeds my beat heart. Just 300 meters from our bow the white glowing clay cliff (little sisters of Calais cliff) rise above us !! On top of that, really trying to give me a heart attack, the mighty ferry breaks the fog almost in our wake forcing us to veer again and race toward the deep (high water) shore.

As soon as we have the order, in between 2 ferrys we enter the harbor. The fog has disipated inside and the harbor is clear. Following a fellow british sail boat, we aim toward the marina where we find the fuel dock. We came in with the coming tide and moored to the dock at slack water to leave less than 45 minutes later with the uncoming tide. Good because Röde orm is easier to handle this way. No time lost, we leave toward the west entrance acting like old local salts now that we know the procedure ! But no need to be cocky, mister fog is waiting for us a few miles off the harbor swallowing us in his smoky mouth. But there is enough breeze downwind to hoist the booster only and make way giving a rest (not needed according to the Yanmar doctor) to the engine. Well it is a rest for the cruising kitty anyway... sailing will be slower but cheaper. However knowing that we can run the engine during 60 hours make us feel better under the late conditions of heavy fog in between this constant heavy shipping lines.

North Sea

2009-06-27T19:04:00.002+02:00

Yes the sea is grey as I figured and the sky too despite of a high pressure. The wind is weak but in a good direction which is enough to please us. We have a very nice ride during one night at 4 to 5 beaufort then the wind dies totally and a thick fog settles in. The engine needs to run had said the mechanic, well it does. We are in a heavy traffic zone and the night watches are challenging. The radar is the center of our attention, no need to point our nose outside, To avoid a night and foggy arrival at Dover, we stop at the edge of trafic line. The sea is flat, and the silent water carries the sound of the fog horns as freighters go by without interruption, it is a frightful feeling, but it is safer to stay put drifting back and forth as the tides change, We keep active radar watches all night long.

to Kiel canal

2009-06-26T19:01:00.000+02:00

A little check down passage of 48 hours crossing the Baltic to Kiel brings us to the entrance of the Kiel canal which avoids going around Denmark to enter the North Sea. No sailing, the wind has given up as soon as we left Falstebo canal.

What a sight ! Freighters, sailing boats, old rigs disguised in charter boats, helicopter, coast guards hovering over it all. Tourist season is starting in this germanic resort town.

We arrived soon in front of the mighty lock gates. There are 2, one for commercial purpose only and the older one for pleasure crafts. We are new at the lock procedure and as we are circling in front of the closed lock we can admire a dozen of old rigs and some almost tall ships all flying the Netherland flag moored at a quay obviously for the only purpose of chartering.

After a call on the VHF, and 10 more minutes of waiting the gate opens, the white lights flashes and we enter the basin with 2 other sail boats. The water level barely changes when the second gate opens on the canal side.

I had imagined the canal as a freeway for freighters borded by industrial sites germanic style. Far from it, the traffic is few with a handful of freighters, not the giant of their kind, some pleasure boats and 2 or 3 magestic barges almost obsolete among those container ships. Through the wooded shores, we have glimpses at very nice houses and the smell of cattle let us guess the presence of big dairy farms. It is quiet, peaceful, neat when we have the canal all for ourselves.

We anchor for the night in a small lake on the side of the canal. Navigation at night is not permitted. The 50 miles long canal can be made in one day but there is 5 or 6 permitted places to stop for the night. We continue the next day after a brief stop at Rensburg, a little village where Magnus can satisfy his taste and curiosity for good geman beers as we go to the store. Sweden taxes heavely alchool and Germany became the mecca to buy booze for swedish who can go there.

We arrive at 19 at Brunsbüttel at the other end, on the Elbe river toward the North Sea. The lock gate opens before us and only for us and soon enough we are facing a big impressive and unfriendly unknown as the gate opens on a grey universe. Sky and water are united in a greyish welcome. The Elbe river is powerful, busy as ships enter the canal or go to Hamburg. The tide, new phenomenom for Magnus is still going down so we ride her and take off. It carries us at 9 to 10 knots as we sail toward the North Sea.

Magnus takes pleasure at this night navigation between buoys and freighters. For him it is his first navigation out of the Baltic and also his first experience with tides. He stays a few hours at the helm as I crashed down below a little apprehensive at the view of this grey universe and the perspective of a gloomy North Sea.

a big high is showing its nose and we are ready !!

2009-06-21T21:55:00.002+02:00

the time has arrived. We will leave the Swedish shores on Tuesday. For me one more country to leave behind. For Magnus, it is untying the lines of his former life to enter a new phase : the nomadic life of seagoing voyagers.

New countries ahead, though we give up Scotland as we are running a little bit late and want to take advantage of a big high pressure over western Europe. So far the weather has been very unsettled, cold and miserable... So from the Kiel canal, may be directly to the UK where we will meet a friend of Magnus and then Brittany. If the weather plays tricks on us.. we will take the inner route through the canals of Holland (with the mast up).

I cannot wait to leave behind Nothern Europe, the English Channel is one gate to freedom, the Bay of Biscaye will be the other one, then even if the weather keep us put somewhere, it won't be much of a burden. I will update my blog as soon as I can, so keep checking.

serenity...

2009-06-08T15:57:00.009+02:00

Some of our surroundings..

Calm afternoon on the Baltic.

Back where she belongs

2009-06-03T18:58:00.006+02:00

Back in the water since a week and during 3 days, a nearly 30 knots wind blew causing to postpone the painting of the anti skid paint on the deck. We were very exposed, tied up to the floating dock waiting for a break to get to our assigned spot inside the basin. We did not have time to do that since we had to meet Magnus parents in Gamleby for the week end. After a month of hard work and incomfortable living on the hard, we apreciate fully the confort of the little house. We realized now how tired we were. A beautiful hot weather and a cosy lively and colorful little garden help to relax. We still do not know when we will be able to depart. There is still some ”dock lines” to sever and some last minute new plans could hold us up one or two more weeks. But we stay serene and as events go we will adapt or improvise..

dry and low....

2009-05-22T11:27:00.002+02:00

It has been three weeks already that we highlight the parking lot looking as misplaced as an elephant in an aquarium... Everyday now, some Germans, Danish or Swedish campers park near our RV which we use as our tool shade. They spend the night there. Often, very often, they ignore us, not even acknowledging our obvious and very colorful presence.......It seems that we do not inspire any curiosity or interest. During the week-end, a lot of visitors or owners of boats invade the lot, though as they drive or walk under the boat, close to the trailer which support her, they do not look up, do not wave, do not smile. That is a behavior contrary to the Gallic rule of savoir vivre !!! Home, we would have a little concentration of curious, giving non solicited advices, slowing down our work by telling stories about their own experience: Help would be proposed, a break, drinking to boost the moral of the crew would be mandatory. I miss this easy going spontaneous behavior which is definitely not in the Swedish character. Though there is always exception to the rule, our friends Jonas and Anne Sophie have been a remarkable help and made things a lot easier for us. I have to add that Höllviken, the close by town is very upper class, with a nouveaux riche attitude, It is chic and expensive. They probably see us as tramps with our older outdated boat...

She is blushing.....

2009-05-19T16:44:00.007+02:00

The two of them got a little red during the process ! Anyway paint job done, next one in years from now will be done with a spray gun, that is the only way to go in my humble opinion..

No, this is not a campground, but a parking it become during t

he nice months in summer. We are the only boat left.. It is rather strange to work in a parking lot !

We have to wait for a new propeller, then the engine has to be realigned properly this time and everything checked since the Estonian mechanics were so amateurs ! There is a good diesel mechanic here.

Anne Sophie and Jonaz from Lady Annila cheer the team up on regular basis by inviting us for dinner. Those moments are really apreciated. Nice to have good friends.

where is the can opener ?

2009-05-11T19:26:00.003+02:00

Yes, there is several ways to open a sardines can in Viking country. Just drill a hole through the hull without checking what is behind... I think the Captain was very eager to have sardines for lunch. And I was grateful it was not olive oil or some other sticky oily stuff...

After a few days of bad weather, the sun (and wind...) is back so it is time for painting. Two coats of primer have been already spread on the deck and cockpit, and that is some nasty stuff to handle. Other jobs have been handled like adding a valve for a sea water intake, adding a depht sounder transducer and some work below water line.

endless and hard work..

2009-05-04T16:13:00.013+02:00

does it show ?
The preparation for a painting job is the most important thing, so we sand until our fingers bleed... Magnus is grinding the steel keel.

the propeller is damaged and will have to be changed, apart that, no bad surprises.

Our days are long and in 4 days we prepared the hull. The deck had been sanded while waiting to be hauled out.

After a sauna at the club, I barely have the courage to prepare diner and the best moment of the day is to lay down with a good book, a cup of tea. We have some good friends who cheer us up and it is a big help. My finger tips are so sore I cannot type anymore...

Bottom up !!

2009-05-04T16:00:00.010+02:00

Without shame she is showing her bottom, as her anxious owner is keeping a sharp eye on the operation... And work started imediately by pressure cleaning the bottom. Then endless hours of sanding topside and grinding the keel. The beautiful weather is still going strong, though we fear a change for next week.

fair winds to our friend

2009-04-28T19:52:00.009+02:00

This morning, our friend Marc from France untied his docking lines for a voyage North in the Baltic, then to Norway (crossing on a truck) to spend the winter far North. He had come to Falsterbo in December after I had told him via email it was a fine place to spend the winter. I was hoping he would come so our very little live aboard community would have one more member. He did, and we had some good time. We wish him a wonderful trip.

follow his trip, just click on the title of this article, you will see his blog and his beautiful pictures.

Meanwhile, others keep working hard, because time will come for them to untie the lines too...

never ending task....

2009-04-23T12:54:00.006+02:00

The good weather is still holding strong, so it is time for some major transformations. A hatch is added where was a broken vent. It is very welcome and to my opinion a number one necessity.

So we remove, cut, level the deck which is curved to match the hatch, epoxy the core, seal and so and so... I pass all the details. A little project like this one can take 2 days.

Meanwhile, this beautiful morning is the oportunity to climb the mast to install new halyards and check if everything is ok up there.

Despite this dead calm morning, the skipper seems to be holding on to his life up there !!! But everything went smooth and the captain was very pleased with his acrobatic morning session. So I recommended him to take a morning hike up the mast every morning...

44 years old and in need of a face lift...boat style of course !

2009-04-16T19:46:00.007+02:00

The sun is back and as the ground hogs do, we point our noses out of our hole and we become very active.. You do not beleive me ? Here the proof.

The captain himself is on deck, with a smile and always a lot of humour..

and he is busy too, cleaning winches, fixing old crack and removing old instruments.

Some of our next projects will change Röde orm look, a deck hatch, and if the weather cooperates a new paint job... Red of course !

Easter in a few days, but Spring is already here

2009-04-09T22:00:00.002+02:00

Happy Spring

A full week of sunshine and every sailor in Sweden is thinking about sailing and rushes to his boat to prepare it for the season, so short here. And we are preparing Röde Orm for an everlasting cruising season. There is almost a world apart between the occasional week-end sailors and us, live aboard and voyagers. Not only the boats look different, but we do look different too !! A little more rugged, less polished and more care free.

what is behind a boat name ?

2009-04-07T21:13:00.005+02:00

There is always a story behind a boat's name, well not always, some lack of imagination and are simply boring... But usually boats with caracter, those which catch the eye because they are different from the rest of the white plastic production boats have interesting names. Sometimes I wonder what is the story behind those names.

Well there is quite a story behind Röde Orm, an epic novel :

In the fantastic world of the tenth century AD when the Vikings raided the coast of England, is the story of a fighting man, a famous pirate Röde Orm.

"Orm is (the swedish word for snake) is the protagonist of the book, the youngest son of a rich and noble bond. He is also a descendant of King Ivar Vidgamne, a fact that he is very proud of. Orm is called "red" (röde) for his hair color. At the beginning of the book, he is a child, but as his adventure continue, his strengh grows and even at age 41 we see him killing two berserks single-handedly. However it is not his strengh that leads him to victory most of the time but his intelligence, resourcefulness, courage and willpower. He is rather patient for a Viking, but is very dangerous when angry. He has a great sense of humour and he is gifted in poetry."

And guess what : our Röde Orm is also flamboyant red (well soon, after a new paint job..), courageous, and strong as its namesake and also as seaworthy as its famous ancestors which carry Orm across the seas.

Northern base camp

2009-03-10T20:15:00.003+01:00

What is my favorite skipper doing ? Training for the Spring Marathon to prepare Röde Orm for her departure ? Or may be this Viking is making sure he will have some big juicy apples to distill his secret brew. The problem is we won't be around to pick them up. This small cute rustic house 500 kms north of here will be deserted most of the time expect for a yearly family visit. It is a temporary land base that Magnus has chosen to keep things that could not fit on the boat and could not be given away. It is situated in one of the nicest place in Sweden, in Gamleby, where the Stockholm Archipelago starts. As all nomads we need a base camp to come back once in a while to rest, or to gather our souvenirs. It could be a temporary one and the camp can change places as we go along, until we found the perfect compromise.

our life style...

2009-03-05T12:18:00.006+01:00

Our faithful diesel heater..

Living aboard full time on a small boat, at anchor or moored to a d0ck in a sunny warm place or in a blistery cold country has a romantic appeal. It is simplifying our lives by keeping only what is needed. It is minimalizing our needs down to the absolute necesities. In our boat, no fridge, no freezer (well... it is for now the least of our problems..), no washing machine, no TV, micro-wave oven, no hot water on the tap, no shower. Just the bare minimum.

Yes it is a simplier life, but not an easier one and certainely not during winter in Sweden. Almost every move we make on the boat has to be calculated not to bump to something or bump into someone... Cabin fever is at the corner ! Cooking is always more challenging than in a house even when the boat is still. And I complicate the task by only using the top of the diesel heater to cook. The heat source is there, so I use it instead of the kerosene stove which sometimes requires a good dose of patience to light properly ! But of course, the "one pot at a time" operation can be a demanding sport sometimes. Not only do I need to be organized but also imaginative in my cooking and that is personal challenge where my French pride is at stake.... Because if we live a simplistic life too minimalist for some people, we eat well in Röde Orm. At sea or not, on a boat, cooking takes more time, in fact everything takes more time. Going to the toilets or for an evening shower is not only opening a door and stepping in or out. It is dressing up warmly, coat, gloves, boots, hat, getting out of the warm salon without letting too much heat out (that means climbing over the companion way boards without removing them.. nice work out !) then carefully stepping on the deck watching for ice and make the big step off the bow on to the pier. That is relatively easy when the sea is calm in the harbor but it can be challenging when the boat jumps up and down and pulls on his lines. The water is freezing cold and a mishap can be deadly.

That makes anyone realizes how much we take things for granted. Every movements, actions is plently lived and thought. Going to the marina restrooms can be at time a polar expedition !

So ? simple yes, as life used to be, but not without hardship and work. On the other hand there is some wonderful rewards : as to enjoy and witness a frozen harbor displaying big tiles of ice in a still crispy morning, to listen to the sound of crushing ice against the hull, admiring the daily commute of flocks of geese, or to smile at the clumsy swans trying to ice skate on the frozen sea. Every time we stick our nose out of our little cozy sea igloo, we are rewarded even when the wind blows gale force. We are sitting at the first row !!

winter life at harbor

2009-02-17T20:29:00.004+01:00

How nice it is to wake up with the sound of ice gently crushing against the hull and the salute of the geese in their daily commute to their feeding grounds. The snow and now the sharp crisp weather is a nice change from the blistery north wind we had those last days. It made the going in and out of the boat a challenge for me somethimes as Röde Orm lays perpendicular to the dock and we have to step on the bow pulprit.

Though it is cold.... minus 5 to 6 centigrades at night, and barely above zero during the day. The diesel heater keeps us warm at head level... since the floor is so cold despite the rugs. It is also a daily fight with condensation, which occurs mostly under the waterline level. Those are the inconvenients of a winter in cold climate. We are at the stage where we dream of opening up the boat, let a warm draft sweeps away the good old boat smells ! But patience, there is still a few weeks of winter ahead. Meanwhile, I will try to enjoy some of the few moments when Mother Nature is at her best.

Portsmouth and the heart of England

2009-02-07T19:15:00.004+01:00

An evening stroll under the moon to the local country pub was the finale after a nic

e barbecue dinner with our friends. They took us along a wooded path which like in the best novels followed an old cemetery lighted by a bright moon. The air was heavy with the smell of wet grass after the afternoon heavy showers. The 30 minutes stroll put us in a perfect mood for some good ale at the Shady Oak, the old traditional country pub. At 1 o'clock, when we left the still busy place, it was pitch dark. No flashlights, who needs any when our guide has a superb night vision and leaded us hand in hand through a short cut of the already short cut... crossing fences , down a creek, following a muddy path. Completely blind, we staggered down the path admiring stars and feeling exhalirated by this little adventurous episode in the tame Britain.

ire and worship them.

back home

2009-01-22T11:58:00.002+01:00

Yes back home, back to live on board again. Though it is winter, cold, humid, windy, it feels good to be on the water. Living in a house was convenient and a enjoyable break but it is not where I belong. We are a rare breed here. Full time live aboard are not common in those Nothern parts and there is not too many places which keeps their facilities open during winter. We keep warm with our diesel heater. There is a big downside : we cannot do much work on the boat outside of course, but even inside since we have to keep the warmth in. So we are eager to get to the warmer months to get some needed jobs done.

Happy New Year, Bonne Année, Gott Nytt Ar, Bloavez mat ....

2008-12-27T16:39:00.005+01:00

A big hug for the New Year...

But.. which calendar are we talking about ? Because our calendar is a solar one with fixed dates, but there is some luni-solar calendars with moving dates (chinese) and there were other ones in use before ours was chosen..

So of course, our New Year day is a pagan holiday without doubt which started when Julius Cesar decided that the 1st of January will become the first day of the year. This day was dedicated by the Romans to Janus, God of the doors and begininings... In France, we had to wait 1564 before January 1st was adopted.. Ave Cesar !!

Do not forget the mistletoe trick, kiss and make peace under it...

Bloavez mat !!

Back to the roots

2008-12-05T13:28:00.007+01:00

As we enter the old path of ancient times, Christmas was the celebration of the rebirth of the sun, after the longest night. Facts, mythology, legends shadowed by Christianity trying to erase the pagan rituals are still alive.

Our Christmas tree is the tree of life of the ancient Celts. As the months were represented by tree, the fir tree was the one for December, a symbol of rebirth.

Another important symbol still very present : the mistletoe.

Celtic tradition

(Indispensable ingredients of the magic potion of Panoramix (the famous druid in Asterix village), the sacred mistletoe was cut by the druid with a golden sickle (as seen on the picture of Panoramix), the sixth day of the Celtic year. They collected it in a white linen sheet while chanting : ‘’O Ghel an Heu’’ which means ‘’let the wheat grow’’. This expression, deformed by time will become in medieval time ‘’au Gui l’an neuf’’ that all French know (''with mistletoe, the new year''). Branches were divided among the people to bring them luck for the year. So sacred it was that it should not touch the ground. The Gallic found plenty virtues to this plant : to chase the bad spirits, purify souls, anti poison, help with the cattle and people fecundity or give the ability to see ghosts and even make them talk…..) In fact, it was considered so sacred that even enemies who happened to meet beneath Mistletoe in the forest would lay down their weapons, exchange a friendly greeting, and keep a truce until the following day. From this old custom grew the practice of suspending Mistletoe over a doorway or in a room as a token of good will and peace to all comers.

Viking Myth

In Scandinavia, the Evil God Loke blinded by jealousy killed the Sun God Balder with a poison arrow made of the stem of a mistletoe. His mother, Frigg Goddess of love and Beauty begged the gods to spare Balder life, otherwise, darkness will fall on Earth, promising to kiss anyone who passes under a mistletoe. Balder resuscitated. From this legend was born the custom to kiss under the mistletoe, becoming symbol of love and forgiveness.

Christianity

When Christianity took a foothold in the Celtic and Viking regions of northern Europe, the ancient ways were condemned as pagan practices and were abandoned by the newly converted. Mistletoe was one of the casualties, and for centuries it was forbidden to display the plant on Christian altars. Eventually, Mistletoe found its way back into acceptance and was revived the ancient ritual of kissing under the Mistletoe as a sign of love, romance and good luck.

Today, Mistletoe can be purchased at most flower shops and even some grocery stores at Christmas. And although some may not hold the same spiritual beliefs as the ancient Norseman and the Celts, they can always remember the good will and happiness it represents with a kiss under the Mistletoe this season.

December and the longest night

2008-12-02T15:42:00.002+01:00

Christmas, Jul, Noël, Natividad... is the celebration of the birth of the ''unvanquished sun'' (sol invictus for the romans), Natalis Deis (day of birth) celebrated on winter solstice day. On this date, the sun is reborn, days are longer.

The Celts who associated a tree for each month celebrated the winter solstice also as the day of the rebirth of the sun. Logically, the epicea was chosen to symbolized childbirth and fertility.

It is also the solstice celebration which is at the origin of Scandinavian Christmas, Jul, very important celebration as we go farther north and the days get shorter in winter.

In the 4th Century, the church unable to suppress the old traditions, decided to disguised the pagan holidays and December 25 (which was at the time, the day of the winter solstice according to the Julian calendar) was chosen to celebrate the birth of Christ (probably born in autumn). As the church thought of Jesus as the sun Christ, the date was assimilated for the church purposes, as many other pagan holidays.

end of the escapade

2008-09-29T16:57:00.002+02:00

A steady fresh wind 20 to 25 knots North East pushes us for our last long stretch: 135 miles toward the island of Möen in Denmark. Two reefs in the main sail with the jib make the ride comfortable and the Aries can steer without much protest. Though to reach our goal, we have to sail downwind and to avoid a jibe, we lower the main sail and let the windvane steer under jib only. We still make an honorable 5 knots and the boat does not roll much either. It is a beautiful starry night as the wind decreases and at noon we are in sight of the high sand cliffs of Möen.

A part from the fishing harbor, the village is disappointing. A new ‘’resort style’’ apartments lack the charm of the old houses. We leave early the next day as the wind has died completely. The high pressure finally weakens after 3 weeks of good wind if not perfect weather. We motor the 10 miles to Rodvig and even stop on our way pretending to fish on some banks. It is just a way to enjoy the sun, and may be try to slow the time as we get closer to home port. We are not ready to settle back to the land routine.

Rodvig is an active fishing port and a big pleasure craft harbor too. Danes are found of wooden boats and put a lot of pride in keeping their heritage alive.

Our last stop is Bangör, across Falstebö. I have been there once in February for my first sail with Röde Orm. At this time, the harbor was sleepy, empty. Today it is full and we tie up along an unoccupied steel ketch. To celebrate the end of our little escapade, we have an excellent dinner at the same inn we ate last February.

The wind increased again in the morning, turning west. No need to hurry back, even under jib only, we maintain a good 5 knots downwind. We cannot slow down the time, and finally, as the GPS shows 1650 miles sailed, we tie up at the dock as the wind sweeps the Sound. Next week, rain, clouds and low pressure are coming back. It will be time to think about the next plan and departure.

Archipelago epilogue

2008-09-22T16:22:00.001+02:00

lonely harbors and villages

Since the high pressure persists, incredible as it seems, it is predicted to last another week, we decide to linger a bit in Blekinge. Today we will make a stop at Karlskrona to visit the Navy Maritime Museum. We spent 5 hours and as the afternoon ends we set sail for an hour to the island of Arpö where we enjoy a rare beautiful sunset in the cockpit that immediately needed to be celebrated with a glass of dark rum. No chill this evening and I even enjoy a wash in the cockpit. We have fired up once the diesel heater for a few hours. The heater is too big for the boat, and unless it is freezing out, we cannot leave it on at night. We endure without problem 14 Celsius inside. It is not a problem as long as it is not raining or windy. Tonight there is no need for a heater.

We have changed pace the last 2 days and I can enjoy a little more of the scenery. Without the month lost for the engine that would have been the pace: short sails between islands, enjoying the beautiful anchorages. Even if it is blowing outside, the islands and reefs offer much protected anchorages with muddy bottoms up to the shore. And it was gladly appreciated when, because of my carelessness the boat left the mooring buoy by itself. As we came back from our walk, it was quite a surprise to find Röde Orm almost touching the big rocks on the shore… My only half hitch knot on the cleat was not enough of course as no wind pulled the boat to tighten it, it slid and untied itself. We had no difficulty to get out, no harm done, just my pride was hurt as I realized retrospectively how bad it could have been if the boat had ended up on the rocks instead of in the mud. I really felt ashamed and angry at myself for being so careless.

3 little jumps toward 3 last islands In Tärno the sun dares to show up and it is summer again. The little village appears ghostly as its inhabitants have already migrated to the mainland. Häno, 8 miles off shore is the last stop for our jump to Denmark. No more boats around, no more harbor fees. We climb the hill to the lighthouse which can be seen 25 miles at sea. Häno has always been a familiar landmark for all seafaring people, an outpost of the Swedish coast.

third and last the Belkinge Archipelago

2008-09-17T15:36:00.000+02:00

We spent 2 hours getting out of the deep mud, using all our might to avoid calling for help. Stubborn we are both and with common effort reinforced by the power of the brand new Yanmar, we succeeded. The wind is fresh turning east and we sail close haul under a grey sky, characteristic of this very strong high pressure. The barometer is set at 1034 milibars since several days now and seems to hold strong. I have the rapid tour of the archipelago, anchoring to a new place every evening, but on the move the next day. Not much hiking of even going onshore.

We leave the archipelago to sail a long 90 miles straight between the island of Öland and the main land. We have to take advantage of the following winds; the Kalmar Straight can be very stressful with a head wind. We got 2/3 of the straight behind us in one day and we anchor in Kalmar between the industrial harbor and a mighty stern castle. After a short passage the next day we reach Belkinge archipelago and its protected water, a small version of the precedent but less frequented by cruisers because farther from the main cities. We are a hundred miles south and the vegetation is different. The main land has the quiet domesticated landscape of farming country. The greens are softer, some yellow already showing in the leaves. We make a quick stop at Långören, the old pilot station kept in its former state thanks to a private association. Few miles in a dead calm bring us to Senoren where the sun dares to shine and warm us a bit.

archipelago blues...

2008-09-15T15:08:00.003+02:00

Harstena and berries hunters

At last, we take some time to walk with Steffan to the village. The little trail winds among the rocks crowned with velvety moss. As we stroll, we pick up berries. It is peaceful; time has stopped as we reach the picturesque tiny village with its houses neatly kept in a very Nordic manner. Now days, it is home for summer vacationers and retired people. I suddenly see myself spending one winter cozily in one of those little red houses writing and meditating. I guess I suffer a bit from the fast pace we have imposed on ourselves. Although we pass through too fast, we are here at a right moment, when the summer crowd has already deserted the islands. The Stockholm Archipelago is more frequented than the Finnish one which is more isolated and seems almost untouched by human hands. We go to a pound where red lilies grow at the end of the village. Standing on the rocks we can see more islands, further we can guess the Baltic Sea clearly agitated by a strong Northeast wind. And that brings us back to reality. Time presses as the favorable wind is strong. We have to get south as much as we can. We leave Steffan after lunch for another little heaven Magnus had discovered during his previous sailing trips. A family of wild swans crosses the narrow channel in front of us. We keep going deeper in the bay, too far though as we softly touch the muddy bottom. Even with full throttle back, we cannot move. There are no tides here, but Magnus remembers that during a high pressure, water recedes and we clearly see the waterline on the rocks…It is getting dark, we set a stern anchor and decide to wait until tomorrow.

archipelago suite....the Stockholm version

2008-09-14T14:25:00.001+02:00

Harstena island, where the two sisters meet

The days are long as we speed down the fairways taking advantage of a 20 knots wind to reach Nynasund where a Yanmar dealer and Magnus parents can be met. His parents are bringing the radar which after repairs has been sent to their home in Gavle, 200 km north of Stockholm.

The mechanic does not see any major problem though says he will need to troubleshoot and won’t be able to do it before a week. It is out of question to wait, but he assured us that it should not be a problem to go on. Being the lightest, I am hoisted to the mizzen mast to reinstall the radar antenna. We spent 2 days with Magnus parents who stayed at a nearby hotel. We enjoyed their company and some nice dinners at a very good local restaurant right in front of the boat bow. But we have
another social rendez-vous. Steffan, who we met already in Götland is heading to Harstena an island 40 miles south of us. He is inviting us for a barbecue. The wind is still strong and the downwind pace is uncomfortable and requires all our attention to avoid a jibe. We want to make it before dark and 5 miles before the entrance of a little channel, we turn on the engine to arrive in a beautiful little bay, another perfect hide out protected by a very narrow passage. The little red sloop (small sister of Röde Orm) is moored bow to the rocks. As soon as we are moored beside her, Steffan does not loose time and prepares his barbecue on the smooth back of a rock which harbor our bowlines. Just one step off and we are around our improvised dinner table enjoying some very nice and tender pork filets. Steffan is a very enjoyable man and we all end up in Röde Orm salon nursing some of Magnus priced malt wiskey.

Åland, a special place (click here..)

2008-09-09T12:14:00.005+02:00

Mariehamn marina

Åland, the last big island at the western part of the Finnish archipelago has a special place in both Finland and Swedish history. The last outpost of the groups of islands spanning the gap between Stockholm and Helsinski is considered part of Finland internationally, but has its own government. Alanders are proud of their heritage and work hard to keep their little paradise for themselves. As a result, there is a special charm to it. Mariehamn, the biggest town is very pleasant and a 2 days stop for us. A mechanic is contacted. He is young and totally inexperience in marine diesel engine as he admits it. Nether less, he spends his lunch hour free of charge listening to the beast’s heart and feels sorry he cannot help. He is planning to take a diesel mechanic course this winter. There is a good wind as the big high pressure built up. We cross the 25 miles of open sea between Åland and the first outpost island of the Stockholm archipelago. Despite this high, the weather is miserable, grey, damp. But a very steady and fresh wind propels us at 6\7 knots on a broad reach on a sea that flattened as we enter the protected waters of the other archipelago

a sample of Nordic archipelago

2008-09-06T11:53:00.002+02:00

Jurmö and its tiny village

The sky is grey, but even under this lead color, it is magic. Though, the nice purring of the Yanmar got rough this morning and sounded more like the asthmatic old one. Something is not quite right, no doubts. We definitely have to have it checked as soon as possible. To add to our frustration, the RPM gage stopped to work, then the oil pressure alarm goes on for no reason but to put more stress on us. Despite all that and the drizzle which does not stop, I still enjoy being here. Today we stop at Jurmö, an island Magnus knows from last year, big enough to harbor a tiny village. After tying up at a deserted little marina, we take a long walk looking for berries. Despite the drizzle and grey skies, a high pressure is building up, creating northerly winds all in our favors. We still have a long way to reach Mariehamn, on Äland. We won’t be sightseeing, just passing through. Although I feel like a Japanese tourist on a charter vacation, I experience the exhilarating feeling of freedom, having the liberty to stop or go at will and belonging nowhere than to the red little ketch silently gliding among the islands. As pearls on a string they parade before my eyes charged not only with history of seafaring, Viking raiding, war between neighbors, but also reminisce of last ice age which has carved those rocks, flattened them, rounded them, soften them to smooth shiny harmonious shapes. Not only you have to look out for pleasure, but also have to be very alert as it is a very challenging navigation, as channel markers have to be identified continuously. A detailed chart is a must.

Finland !!

2008-09-04T11:02:00.000+02:00

Now we grind our teeth as soon as we have to start the engine... Will it start without too much grumpiness today? It is still very windy as we motor to the marina without any problems. The sun is shining and every thing brightens up, even our mood. Hangör is a very pretty old town, charged with history and it is my first test of the archipelago landscape Magnus told me so much about. I cannot believe I am actually in Finland. Not long ago, Scandinavia seemed so far away, almost inaccessible and remote trapped between ice and sea in my imagination.

How easy can we forget hardship! Yesterday was gloomy and stressful, today we start to relax and enjoy our surroundings. A nice sauna and the company of 2 new friends helped a lot. Mike, a British retired man single hands his boat during summers and Bastian a young German who sails alone his wooden Folkboat in a full Baltic tour. It was a celebration for us as 8 months today have past since we met in Paris. We all ended up in Röde Orm salon for dinner. At least it felt like cruising life again, sharing our passion with other sailors. As Bastian pointed out we were members of 4 different countries gathered in one foreign to all of us tonight.

And here, begins the nicest part as we enter the Finish Archipelago with its numerous channels and fairways leading to thousands islands in a protected sea. I have some flashbacks of landscapes from Canada, Brittany, Maine. But it is not comparable; it is unique and rewarding at last. Magnus feels like home and I feel like an explorer and adventurer again. We anchor tonight between 2 little islands. The Swedish language has a variety of words for all kind of island size and shape. It was a beautiful night under the stars, and perfect for eating the can of ‘’fois gras’’ my mother sent me.

free again....

2008-09-03T22:11:00.005+02:00

Lonely Dirhami...

No doubt that Hendrik was doing is best. But being nice, courageous and honest does not replace experience and professionalism.. Obviously he had never installed a new engine and has not worked much on marine engine, except outboards. He knows about theory, but for the rest, he is learning as he goes. It is not something you want to hear from the one you trust installing your brand new expensive engine. So we started to worry about the out coming. It took a ridiculous amount of time. After a month since the old one gave us its last breath, we still do not completely trust the installation. Is the alignment right ? It seems that Hendrik with the help during the last day of an older mechanic had not a clue. The poor thing was vibrating painfully at the first try. It seemed also that the use of a filler gage was not an option until, after discussion, they finally used one. The result was that the engine felt a lot better in its new bed and stopped complaining and shaking. But....
May be it was not the right place after all to have this work done. Although less expensive, the number of competent experienced pleasure boats diesel mechanics is not overwhelming in Estonia. They may built a lot of brand new marinas but the pleasure boat industry is still limited to some foreign boats coming and going during only 2 or 3 months a year.
So finally, the 3 rd of September, we fired up the new beast which purred like a kitten and with much relief saw Dirhami disapeared at the horizon. The wind picked up, the Aries decided to act up too, jealous of all the late attention toward the engine. To help our speed, Magnus put the transmission in reverse and soon realized that the gear level was stucked. As the wind and sea picked up, it was impossible to lift the engine hatch in the cockpit to see what was going on. The old lady got well splashed by a very confused sea as the wind picked up. We suddenly felt stressed and almost doomed with new problems. What is next ? The surrounding of Hangör, first stop in Finland was not welcoming under grey skies and strong wind : lot of rocks, shallows and reefs. We had only one option and just one try at it : anchoring under sail in a semi protected little bay behind the ferry terminal. The maneuver went well and the heavy CQR set on first try. The problem with the gear was solved swiftly but the reason of the failure not quite understood. We spent the night at anchor, too tired to care about the fetch.

still waiting for the ''heart transplant''

2008-08-27T14:35:00.006+02:00

old heart dismissed...

my backyard...

Lonely Dirhami...

20 days today, 20 days of waiting in Dirham, 20 days of questioning, of feeling low, sometimes depressed and finally accepting the fact that no matter how we take it, things have to follow a certain order, and we do not have any control on it. We just have to trust Hendrik our only link to the outside world !! The old well worn engine have been dismissed on the 21 st, the new one has arrived, but the steel bars where the engine was mounted were so rusty that it was decided to make new ones. That seems to take longer than we thought. We are so isolated here; we can only rely on Hendrik who takes everything back to Tallinn and deals with subcontractors as he says his ''metal partner''. Though Hendrik is a thorough diesel mechanic, he never installed a new engine on a boat, so it is a premiere for him too, and if he is very careful of course everything takes longer than it should. We know that everything will be overlooked and well studied as he does not want to make any mistakes, but it has a draw back: time... Time is money, and time is running short for the rest of our trip and time is also the approach of cooler weather. For me it is not an attractive prospect and that only reminds me of the winter coming and will I be able to take it without feeling too depressed and restless, longing for tropical breeze and outdoors activities and laid back countries away from any fast moving society, back to the marginal life I like? But that will be another story. Trying to make this forced stay a little more enjoyable, I have established my little routine: a short run in the morning in the nice and peaceful pine forest with its endless trails and to crown the day, a yoga session on a soft and odorant moss mat followed by blueberries picking. If the sun is shinning, it is a perfect day after all….

R.I.P, the beast is history....

2008-08-18T15:16:00.008+02:00

Hendrik and his little family

No, we did not have a funeral for the beast at the Orthodox church in Tallinn, but instead had a very nice week-end in Tallinn, thanks to Hendrik, our mechanic who invited us to stay at his family home.

Last Friday, the diagnostic was not encouraging, as every little bolts were corroded. A phone call to Finland brought us the news of a 30CV new Yanmar that could be sent here on Tuesday. Still cheaper than in Sweden, it became obvious and logical to switch engines here. So, Magnus took the tough decision. Not only it is a tremendous expense but also that will shorten our little trip in Finland. Although, looking at the brighter side, it will be done and over with for the big departure next spring. Tallinn is a small city for a capital and its old town attracts a lot of tourists coming mostly from the cruise ships docking at the harbour. Already an active town during the medieval era, its history is tangled with Denmark, Sweden, Russia, Germany. During the long drive to Tallinn from Dirham, we were astonished as we saw nothing but pine forests, no villages, no farms. The only farming region is in the south. Estonian economy is in the dark as the country does not produce anything really and that foreign businesses have taken over. Not much money is coming in.., but certainly a lot is going out !! As they entered the European Union, a big help had kicked off the economy, now it is slowing down and Estonian middle class is in jeopardy, struggling, not yet adjusted to this new way of life as they fell in the trap of ultra capitalism. Young educated couple as our new friends do not have an optimistic view of Estonia future. Would it make it or not on its own ? Would it fall under Russian dominance which is always preying on an opening to sea ? With this first true contact with the country, as we absorbed all those informations, as we saw some of the country sight, as we met more people, we feel a certain melancholy, as a gloomy veil that seems to be the country fate.

street in old Tallinn

still operating on the wounded

2008-08-15T12:10:00.002+02:00

discussion over the wounded beast

It is the fourth time the mechanic comes. Today, it is in day light... The three first time, he came at 6 pm and worked until 11pm. Although he is reluctant about ''the situation'' of the engine, he is doing a thoroughly overhaul maintenance on the rusty beast. He is very consciencious and stubborn as he wants to investigate the problem. Although he is young he has this old fashion geniune craftman spirit that is mostly gone in the fast moving pace competing societies. As he says ''I am learning every day''. So we hope for the best, but soon or later the old beast will have to be replaced.....

The waiting...

2008-08-13T09:35:00.004+02:00

coming to Dirham under tow 59 12,7' N 23 30,2' E

It has been 10 days since the engine gave up on us, and we are still counting... 10 days is a lot when there is only a month and half left. Hopefully we should have some answers and solutions today. With a 24 years old rusty engine, you have to be ready for the worst ! Even if everything is solved today or tomorrow, that will jeopardize the rest of our little trip which should start to be a lot more interesting. Ironically, this part will have to be shorten quite a bit now.

Ironically too, I started this trip with not one book to read, and now it is torture ! Thinking about finding some English books in the big cities like Riga or Tallin I did not worry much. There is not much to do here beside walking to the little convenient store and buying some Russian beer, or walking in the endless pine forest where I do some yoga to release my energy. There is not much boats coming in now and in general rule, I found that ''cruisers'' do not socialize very much in those waters. Of course being isolated on the lonely big wharf on the other side of the slips does not help too.

So in retrospect, skipping Ventplist, Riga and Tallin was not such a good idea since those cities represent the only interest in those area.

stucked in Estonia !!

2008-08-12T11:53:00.003+02:00

Lethma harbor and trouble.... towed to Dirhami

We had half joked about fleeing Estonia that we found gloomy with its watch towers and unwelcomed shores. The reminiscence of the Soviet era is still strong. We keep reminding ourselves, that it has been only 20 years since those countries got freed from the Soviet boot. During the Soviet era, to go to the islands from the main land, required permission. Some people got shot on Huiimaa Island to set an example, as they were suspected of having some desire to flee the country. No wonder why we found people a bit wary, they are still trapped in the Soviet Education. So when the Yanmar engine refused to start in Lethma, this outpost harbor of a lost island… we thought we were doomed in Estonia!
So yes, to my opinion, the Baltic countries are not the best sailing grounds. The water is too shallow and the coasts too difficult or impossible to approach unless you go to designated harbors and still have to be careful to stay in the channels. The Bight of Riga itself is a challenge. We got some 15 to 20 knots of wind there, so what would have been a good comfortable sailing became a session in a washing machine with very short waves breaking at the top as if the wind was blowing 35 knots and only 4 seconds between them! The average depth is 20 feet. We were glad to get out of this Bight. Without the engine working we could still get out of Lethma and sailed the 24 miles to the mainland where it would be easier for the mechanic to come. It took us 24 hours though since the wind as usual died… We could not get close to the entrance channel at night so we hove to for 4 hours. Then in the morning, the wind veered south, right on the nose. It was impossible to tack in a 60 feet wide channel with dangerous rocks on both sides. We called on VHF the harbor and a boat from the ‘’border patrol’’, the local Coast Guard towed us to the harbor. We felt a little ashamed not to have been able to sail in but that would have required the perfect conditions to do so and after 24 hours trying to get there, it was quite a relief to get in even shamefully towed in. Dirhami is another commercial/pleasure harbor. Though the big wharf seems to fit freighters, it is empty and I doubt if any commercial ship can come in view of the narrow entrance. It is another harbor financed by European funds. A few slips, wide and short, a big wharf in an isolated place again, no villages close by, no fishing boats either. People are nice but mostly distant. There is of course the barrier language as very few people over 30 speak English, like in Lithuania they had to learn Russian. I have found Lithuanian to be a bit warmer and may be the softer and more musical language intonations helped feel so too. Since we do not get close to any villages or towns except for one in Saareema island it is hard to have contacts and see people in their day by day life. It is disconcerting in fact. We have spent time now in Lithuania and Estonia but except for the tiny Rhunu I have the feeling of not having seen much or learned much about the country and its people, beside shallow waters, pine forest and sand coastline and former soviet watch towers!

the sea inside the sea... Bight of Riga

2008-07-27T11:39:00.008+02:00

old house,

old church of Ruhnu

sailing the Bight of Riga

As we set sail for Riga in the Riga Bight, the wind shifted south east. Riga is 80 miles south and out of our way since we are going north to Finland. So we decide to bypass Riga, and instead go to Ruhnu Island, 35 miles south. The ride is rough, more sea than wind…. Riga Bight is very shallow; the waves are short and already breaking in 20 knots of wind!! I despite the seas, especially that shallow, it is ridiculous!! As we arrived at night, we decided to anchor close to the harbor, but we have to stay 3 miles off the coast to have enough water under our keel. We have a splendid morning and do not feel eager to go to the harbor. I bravely took my first bath in the Northern waters. To my surprise, it was very pleasant! So no more teasing, I showed how brave the Celts can be!! The little marina seemed bran new but not well suitable for sail boats. The finger slips are too short and too wide. It is clear that all the marinas have been built the last 10 years with the European subventions. Ruhnu has been populated by Swedes, then more or less been under Swedish control for awhile, all Swedish residents has been evacuated during the Second war. In the middle of the Riga Bay, it is officially Estonian now. We rent bicycles and have a very pleasant ride in this very small island… a Beautiful 1641 old wooden church; the oldest remaining wooden building in Estonia is a sight to see with some old farms. 60 inhabitants, a little more in the summer is the only population. With its nice beaches and deep pine forests Rhunu, ancient Viking Island is a very pleasant stop. So pleasant, even for Röde Orm, which clearly showed us her disapproval, by simply ground herself in the narrow channel, refusing the sharp turn she was supposed to take. With the help of a fellow cruiser we got on our way with no harm done. Another rough ride up the Bay, as the wind freshened up a bit. I can easily imagine the sea in a 40 or 50knots wind, a genuine trap!! Röde Orm is at ease in rough wind and sea. Comfortable she can take a lot, but with those nasty short waves, she is tossed around as is her crew. There are no anchorages, but we improvise some, as we do not want to go through the straight of Suur between Muhu Island and the continent at night. This straight is a blank area on the electronic chart…
The last stop before Finland will be Lethma on Hiiumaa Island. The entrance is again narrow and dangerous. A few buoys and rickety floating docks have been hastily built in this gloomy isolated commercial harbor again financed with European Fund. A Bermudian freighter loading lumber is docked and we wonder how it got through the two entrance buoys!!