Time to migrate south

a visit to Mont St Michel, even more mysterious under the drizzle normand

It is time to go back to Röde Orm and time for sailing and enjoying new places. So back on our track again after this long break north.

we do not want to find a tree in Röde Orm cockpit !

and St Malo, the proud city of our "corsaires", standing proud across the centuries

a little tour in South Brittany

The past all around us, Clisson medieval city

The rocky coast of St Gildas, South of the Loire estuary

Guérande, a medieval walled city

and the famous salt ponds of Guérande,

Le Croisic, active fishing harbor on a beautiful coast

old mills of the 15 century, back to activity

Ouch ....!

France is a country to visit, to enjoy  food, wine and savoir vivre, but for me none of that, or well... some anyway before I submit myself to the knife of a surgeon.....Nothing dramatic.... but it will be a big relief to have it done before going to remote places. I do not feel confortable at all to rely on a local shaman !

A rare breed of elephant...(click on title for more pictures)

Yes, in Nantes, my home city, there is some strange animals called : les machines de l'île (de Nantes). They were born in the former big shipyard which was the heart of Nantes before it closed its doors 20 years ago. After been laid off some formers craftmen working in the yard decided to create strange creatures in wood, animated by hydraulic movements. They started with the Giant and the Little Giant which now tour the world big cities, and of course the famous Elephant. Now more than 30 creatures are created, a mixture of the world of Jules Verne, native of Nantes, and the wild and poetic imagination of artist craftmen.  A team of young craftmen and women work continuously on new projects, the goal is to create a giant carroussel where all these machines will be used for the fun of people. Meanwhile, everyone is invited to climb on a firing sea dragon, or a cute turtle or a roaring strange flying fish and can participate to make it lively by using some pedals, levers to move feet, eyes etc..



The little giant

It was a very good initiative that the people of Nantes apreciated.  The closing of the shipyard was a dramatic shock for Nantes which has always been an important harbor  since the Roman invasion .Now the deserted yard is lively again and instead of launching huge ships, some very strange beasts emerge from the big warehouses, and a giant and his little niece can come back after their vacations around the world.

The sea dragon

and the sultan's elephant

nordic summer

stockholm

We left Röde Orm at anchor in the river, and flew to Sweden for a few weeks, to take care of a few land related matters.


Sweden is at its best during this so longed for mid summer that 9 millions of Swedish wait for during 10 months of the year. Luck is on their side, and ours, as the sun shines brightly over the country, and a very warm and hot weather swarms over the nordic lands. It is a bonanza of nature, as vegetation, humans and animals are united in a frenesy of life, knowing this break is short. The days seem to never end and the sun takes only a short break to disapear still not to far from the horizon before showing up again.
We are busy removing the last chains that tie Magnus to land but we  would rather enjoy sailing during this beautiful period in the archipelago. Instead, we drive back and forth betwen Malmö, Gamleby, Gälve giving me the oportunity to discover more, even Stokholm, so I enjoy it this way too, between packing stuff in boxes !!!

A road trip

Mértola, 38 km north of Alcoiutim on the Guadiana is in the province of Alentejo (a well known good wine production area). It is hazardeous to reach it with our boats, so thanks to Mo, our new friend resident on the Guadiana shores, we drove through the steep hills and deserted landscape. We all got in his van for a little discovery trip. with Andreas, Swedish first met in Falsterbo who just came with his boat to Alcoutim. Since Antiquity, the area was already well known for minerals and for its prime location along the river. The Romans had established a good base at Mértola as show important ruins close to the Moorish forteress. The little village has been a very impressive settlement dominating the narrow valley since the pre Roman era. The Moors took over and the islamic culture left its trace even nowdays, some islamic holidays are still celebrated. Farther in the Alantejo where a torrid and dry wind sweeps the smoother hills, we go see the Minas Santo Domingo. The mines were closed in 1943. Exploited since the Romans, it is now a open wound in the landscape. The region is ruined by the acidic mineral deposit. The little village where the miners lived is still surviving among the remains of the mine and the acidic small artificial lakes with their bare and unhealthy shores. Far from the coast and its often clashy tourist traps, there is a lot to discover if what you want to see is the Portugal which still belongs to the Portugueses. Few tourists go deep in the country, and even fewer cruisers who prefer the security of the English speaking costal towns and marinas.  Well they miss a lot, but we surely do not miss them around us !!

Aromatic trekking

(click on title of post to see photo albums)

                                                                                      the fountain in alcoutim

We took off on a two days hike in the country of olive, almond and fig trees groves along the trails winding among lavender and rosmary bushes, sage and other flowers in full bloom. The labyrinth of smooth but steep hills show very few habitations, the villages are far apart and very small on both sides of the Guadiana. It is a heaven for the senses. We set our tent at the base of an almond tree among the thick bed of flowers and herbs and just enjoyed the spicy air at the top of the hill, dominating the surroundings and the river. The Algarve is not only the splendid beaches and ocre cliffs that the tourists love so much. It is also this rugged and rustic isolated back country, genuine, full of charm and hospitality and most of all pristine and beautiful along the Guadiana.