Klapedia and Curian Sea, Lithuania
Klapedia is a busy or was a busy harbor in Lithuania and is my first contact with this country. As I knew the name Lithuania and could more or less situated it on a general map, I was quite unable to tell you its borders, cities or else!! Little to nothing is my knowledge about it. We did not have much on chart either. The main interest was sailing the ‘’Kursiu inner sea’’ or Curian Sea. Klapedia seems to be in between two worlds but adjusting quite well and fast to the western society, with the big help of the European Union that Lithuania was eager to join. We arrived in the middle of a folkloric festival and the heart of the city flourished with people dressed up in all the Baltic and Slavic folkloric costumes .The Curian Sea is 40 miles long, 15 wide with an average depth of 3 meters... Though very well marked it is easy to navigate. A good quarter of it is in Lithuania, the southern part belonged to the Russian enclave. We crossed it to go to Almata River and to tease the Russian border. The long Laguna between the Baltic Sea and the Curian Sea (fresh water) is mostly pine forests and dunes and the shore lines, swamps. No foreign boats at all, but a few local yachties sailing older Swedish built boats. We can guess that boating is at its beginning here. The Curian Sea and its little resort towns are probably the only touristic attractions of Lithuania and special efforts (with European subventions...) are made to attract tourists. Though may be too much for my taste. It looks too perfect, too neat, too still. New houses old style misses some character and flavor of the past. Though, I understand they want to erase some of their past under the Russian boot. Hatred toward the former masters is still very strong and alive. It has been only 20 years after all... Although wary on first contact, they are a warm and pleasant people.
We may end up like the ''flying Dutchman'' relentlessly wandering across the Baltic Sea. Yes we crossed west again instead of the initial plan to go North to Ventplist and Riga Bay. As we tried, the wind was too south to have a comfortable ride. The Aries wind vane disapproved highly of this point of sail and the skipper had his heart almost broken at the sight of the sails flapping like some bed sheets on the line. We had delayed our departure for one day after one try out of the Klapedia harbor entrance, narrow and shallow. It felt like being tossed around in a washing machine and as we hoped for some improvement as we sailed to the channel marker, a big swell came in. The Baltic as all seas is treacherous with its shallow waters especially on the eastern side. We decided to turn around. No need to rush. We anchored back in our little ''cove'' we had previously found among the little fleet of fishing dinghies.
The next day was beautiful but the wind was a too perfect downwind, south with a still strong westerly swell. The beauty about the sea is no matter which way you go, you have plenty options. We voted for Gotland, the big Swedish island. We could make a few stops going north then cross back to Riga. The important thing is to enjoy the ride as much as possible when you can. Everything is new for me, so I am up for anything. Another overnight at sea: 120 miles across again, west this time. The coastline of the Baltic countries is not appealing, not many islands and very shallow waters, very badly charted. The Curonian Sea was interesting but to my opinion will not deserve another visit.
A big high pressure installed itself above our head and we enjoyed a beautiful weather, hot, even at sea, even warm at night... the only problem, my only problem is that the Baltic Sea is cold... So facing the teasing and joking of my Viking skipper, I shamelessly use the sun shower to wash myself instead of bravely jump in the sea for a quick wash... (The sea is not very salted).
Klapedia is a busy or was a busy harbor in Lithuania and is my first contact with this country. As I knew the name Lithuania and could more or less situated it on a general map, I was quite unable to tell you its borders, cities or else!! Little to nothing is my knowledge about it. We did not have much on chart either. The main interest was sailing the ‘’Kursiu inner sea’’ or Curian Sea. Klapedia seems to be in between two worlds but adjusting quite well and fast to the western society, with the big help of the European Union that Lithuania was eager to join. We arrived in the middle of a folkloric festival and the heart of the city flourished with people dressed up in all the Baltic and Slavic folkloric costumes .The Curian Sea is 40 miles long, 15 wide with an average depth of 3 meters... Though very well marked it is easy to navigate. A good quarter of it is in Lithuania, the southern part belonged to the Russian enclave. We crossed it to go to Almata River and to tease the Russian border. The long Laguna between the Baltic Sea and the Curian Sea (fresh water) is mostly pine forests and dunes and the shore lines, swamps. No foreign boats at all, but a few local yachties sailing older Swedish built boats. We can guess that boating is at its beginning here. The Curian Sea and its little resort towns are probably the only touristic attractions of Lithuania and special efforts (with European subventions...) are made to attract tourists. Though may be too much for my taste. It looks too perfect, too neat, too still. New houses old style misses some character and flavor of the past. Though, I understand they want to erase some of their past under the Russian boot. Hatred toward the former masters is still very strong and alive. It has been only 20 years after all... Although wary on first contact, they are a warm and pleasant people.
We may end up like the ''flying Dutchman'' relentlessly wandering across the Baltic Sea. Yes we crossed west again instead of the initial plan to go North to Ventplist and Riga Bay. As we tried, the wind was too south to have a comfortable ride. The Aries wind vane disapproved highly of this point of sail and the skipper had his heart almost broken at the sight of the sails flapping like some bed sheets on the line. We had delayed our departure for one day after one try out of the Klapedia harbor entrance, narrow and shallow. It felt like being tossed around in a washing machine and as we hoped for some improvement as we sailed to the channel marker, a big swell came in. The Baltic as all seas is treacherous with its shallow waters especially on the eastern side. We decided to turn around. No need to rush. We anchored back in our little ''cove'' we had previously found among the little fleet of fishing dinghies.
The next day was beautiful but the wind was a too perfect downwind, south with a still strong westerly swell. The beauty about the sea is no matter which way you go, you have plenty options. We voted for Gotland, the big Swedish island. We could make a few stops going north then cross back to Riga. The important thing is to enjoy the ride as much as possible when you can. Everything is new for me, so I am up for anything. Another overnight at sea: 120 miles across again, west this time. The coastline of the Baltic countries is not appealing, not many islands and very shallow waters, very badly charted. The Curonian Sea was interesting but to my opinion will not deserve another visit.
A big high pressure installed itself above our head and we enjoyed a beautiful weather, hot, even at sea, even warm at night... the only problem, my only problem is that the Baltic Sea is cold... So facing the teasing and joking of my Viking skipper, I shamelessly use the sun shower to wash myself instead of bravely jump in the sea for a quick wash... (The sea is not very salted).
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