Silves and its fortress
Portimaõ was a premeditated long stop as we plan to have a dodger (spray hood) made, but it became longer than predicted as the sailmaker who is supposed to make it is now delivering a boat from the UK and has been delayed by bad weather in Biscay.
By avoiding the marina and the sterile and tacky touristic resort of Las Rochas, we find the area pleasant especially where we are anchored in front of the charming genuine little fishing village of Ferragudo on the east side of the river Arade.
Zephyr left for the Canary islands and as we wait for our canvas guy we plan to go on to Olhaõ and Faro, then to the Guadiana river. Though the nights are getting colder (9-7 celsius) and we almost regret our decision to stay around for winter, decision dictated by the logistic of going back North beginning of summer and leaving the boat somewhere around here for a few weeks. But the sun is still shinning and warm, and the region worth while discovering.
The Algarve, poor region of Portugal discovered a new gold mine with tourism. The northerners, mostly Bristish, German and Dutch are invading the region bringing inflation, bad taste and a certain arrogance in big contrast to the gentleness and low profile of the natives. But here, the excesses of tourism are not too obvious and the spectacular coast is preserved and the off season calm.
We pay a visit to Silves a former important urban center for the ancien islamic Gharb Al-Andalus during the 10th to the 13th century. Surrounded by orange groves the city is dominated by the Almohad forteress built in rusty red colored adobe bricks. The ruins of the Almohad palace, its gardens, baths and impressive water cistern give us an idea of how this mighty palace must have looked. The charming city nowdays indicates that the Algarve was never a rich region even under the Arab dominance who imported the art of growing citrus and irrigation system to this bare and arid land.
Ferragudo at dawn from the cockpit
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